Edward Crutchley AW19 at London Fashion Week Men's

The swish of a long three-button pin stripe coat welcomes in Edward Crutchleyʼs Autumn/Winter 2019 collection as this season draws on the iconography of work.

A sartorial, no-frills attitude meets brassy textile inspired by the jollity and camp of QVC, that person at the office Christmas party and a maleficent, magnificent Grace Jones in A View to a Kill (1985).

 Signature roomy silhouettes have been slimmed down in homage to the no-nonsense tailoring of mid-1980s Japanese and American RTW.

The attitude is one of dressing for the occasion. Saving that Lurex fil coupé chiffon open collar shirt for the office outing. Dusting off a special Panné velvet suit to wear to dinner.

A new deconstructed snakeskin print is a nod to power dressing, pomp and parties.

Oversized is an attitude more than a covering for the body.

Trousers have zips running down their front creases. A long-sleeved Cuban shirt is in printed velvet.

Crutchley has collaborated with a number of artisanal producers and designers. Merino wool and cashmere jacquard used for outerwear and blankets is from Johnstons of Elgin – makers of the softest cashmere garments in the world.

Classic wool tailoring fabrics are from Yorkshire-based mill Bower Roebuck.
Stephen Jones has designed a riff on a traditional Korean gat and a pillbox hat in soft swakara.

Sunglasses are by sustainable eyewear brand Wires and high-shine loafers are by Christian Louboutin.

Band of Outsiders AW19 at London Fashion Week Men's

For Autumn Winter 2019, Band of Outsiders’ Creative Director Angelo Van Mol looked at the moon landing as a pioneering event.

One source of inspiration was Damien Chazelle’s recent movie First Man, starring Ryan Gosling. But instead of focusing on the moon landing itself, Angelo turned to the people experiencing it while watching this happen in front of their living room’s TVs.

The collection is very much about the feel of the end of the 60’s and beginning of the 70’s.

The choice of colours and fabrics embodies this: warm hues including spice orange, burgundy and olive brown are balanced with camel, navy and black.

 That era was also one of protest, empowerment and challenging ideologies which led to a more open-minded society. People wanted to break barriers in every way, especially style, and explore new territories with the moon being the most unreachable and fascinating one.

. Corduroy suits sit alongside denim (classic blue and brown) as well as cotton shirting (plain, stripes and printed).

Prints juxtapose between classic heritage check wools and jazzy statement stripes

Iceberg AW19 at London Fashion Week

For AW19 Creative Director James Long takes the ICEBERG family with him to the Italian Alps. Logo ski flag shapes in danger zone primaries are puzzled together with black to form sweaters

video of the finale A blizzard of crazy puzzle graphics slice across a classic twill shirt layered over sleek polo necks topped with roomy, glossy parkas

 A new punk-grunge graffiti logo peaks across knit hoodies and zip jackets

 ICEBERG red coats, high-vis acid green full looks and slashed logo sweaters mean you will always stand out on the slopes or the street.

 Deep purple, a new colour for ICEBERG men, crops up as a velour tracksuit kept cosy under teal blue jacket.

 Après ski ICEBERG men in snow-tipped navy polo shirts worn with matching joggers, a new coat shape is tailored in high sheen wool and knit is inserted into soft leathers.

The bandana print comes as a loose fit jean and matching shirt - styled with ice white logo polo necks

Mickey Knits make an appearance

 New bags include the ICEBERG tote in glassy leathers and a knit strap marsupial. Colours are pop culture and to quote James Long “punky-mountain” bright: green, red, yellow and blue calmed by navy and black.

Danshan AW19 at London Fashion Week Men's

Delving into the practice of using non invasive practices to explore the modern masculine body, DANSHAN are exploring a tender yet strong man who they believe should and can flourish in our shared experience of the world.

For AW19 , the clothes in the collection are seen as emotional vibrations as they indulge in tender folds, unfurl into spasms.

 Satin drapes augment the physique while concealing and exaggerating a new form; the sensation of softer fabrics and non aligned stereotypes of hardness aim to make a space for men where mental and behavioural expression is often prohibited

 Satin arms signal a new way for men to reach out to touch one another without stagnant ideas of stigma perforating this simple and sensitive act.

 Excited by the notion of emotions being similar to that of ripples which flow into the future- these also create themselves into physical waves which stream into a new man’s consciousness,

DANSHAN have transplanted these soft movements into their latest designs. The desire for tenderness and fluidity rather than sterile coldness is an imperative element to their design process. They want you to feel. This is not a vision of the future as such but a pathway to a destiny that we hope can exist, imaging the beginnings of a world where all genders learn to allow thoughtful choices to be made with joy. Here is a new love for maleness, nothing progressive was achieved by force.

Phoebe English AW19 at London Fashion Men's

This collection is founded on attempts at problem solving and being part of the solution. Reversing the process. Beginning with both the start and the end of a garments life.
Zero-waste pattern cutting and reclaimed production off cuts.The collection is a patchwork of many differing blacks from years of waste fabric accumulation.

 Heavy folded ruched bags are cut with zero waste pattern cutting.

Trousers are formed from a tonal patchwork of waste materials, all offered as limited editions.

GOTS certified organic cotton with plastic free buttons made from excess dairy industry milk proteins, Casein is the protein element naturally occurring in milk and is cured and hardened into sheets or rods from which blanks for button-making are taken. It was first developed in 1909 at a disused cloth mill in Stroud, Gloucestershire.Courtney & Co has become the first makers of casein buttons (registered name Codelite®) in the UK for around 45 years,

Kints in undyed Alpaca, grown , spun and knitted all on one organic farm.'.British Alpaca'  based in Somerset, UK. Alpaca produce a hollow fibre yarn with formidable thermal properties and a micron count between 15 and 29, it is warmer than wool and more durable than cashmere. Their yarn is available in a vast 22 natural undyed colours, meaning no harmful chemicals are used in the dying process. The fibre grown on these camelids is an environmentally sustainable solution for the textile industry.

 Loose fitting boxy trousers and oversized jackets slouch in traditionally woven welsh wool flannel.The Teifi Valley has been the centre of the Welsh woollen trade since the nineteenth century, where Melin Teifi still produces the finest traditional Welsh flannel using top-quality materials and local craftsmanship. Melin Teifi concentrates upon the production of flannel, tweed, blanket and usually for products like quilts, shawls, flannel shirts, smocks etc. Produced in a slow, more sustainable way in Wales, the distance in which the wool needs to travel is significantly smaller than other international wool mills.

Bright blue organic waxed cottons from Ireland punctuate this monochrome collection.

British made shoes by Trickers, tanned organically with leaf excess from the olive industry