JAMES HILLMAN AW11 Collection at London Fashion Week

Fashion Mode mentors new designers each a year and helps them launch themselves on to the catwalk. This year one of the three lucky designers was:

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JAMES HILLMAN
Hillman’s inspiration was crude oil and the importance it has in our society.

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The colour palette was different shades of black reflecting the natural colour of crude oil.

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whilst the models wore their hair slicked back, nails painted black and super shiny shoes

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Exposed fly zips lay diagonally and

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...shoulders were slightly swept up...,

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and cuffs turned up.Shirt collars varied from the minimilistic band collar to the more flamboyant double button high necked collar

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Fabrics had sheen like the oil in ripstop and

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...lightweight wax cottons on shirts

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and the heavier cashmere mixes and

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....reindeer leather for jackets and coats.

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Lapels on jackets were either slim or

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nonexistent giving a clean minimalistic look,

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whilst the mixing of fabrics gave a flow of depth and shades.

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Due to the lack of colour, this collection concentrated on the satorial tailoring details
Images by photographer Chris Dadey

ASGER JUEL LARSEN AW11 Collection at London Fashion Week

The theme was gothically dark although the looks changed dramatically.

Opening to the sound of horses hooves the model walked on in a Victorian funeral director style long black coat and top hat embellished with crosses. 

The next model followed dressed in a black leather biker jacket with knee high buckled boots.

Inspired by historic events ,the show crossed over the pond to the US with a black leather US cavalry look.

And a black US civil war look.

The Native American appeared, again in black, with black Mohican style feathered headdress, pants with wide open laced up sides and a large metallic warrior necklace cum breastplate. 

Before going back to the civil war this time in shades grey - maybe representing the other side.

The top hat reappeared adorned with long leather ribbons and trousers at half mast

The show lightened up with a monochrome Uncle Sam in black and white embellished with metal spikes. Footwear added a touch of colour in the original red, white and blue stars and stripes.

The next Uncle Sam was hanging on by a thread (or threads). 

 At the end reverting back to the gothic look with fake bones /teeth hanging from a fish net veil

and  a sweeping black cloak and top hat as the finale piece..  

MR LIPOP AW11 collection at London Fashion Week

Titled 'From London to Tokyo via the Old Crow'

What better way to start an expedition than that with a fur trimmed leather hood attached to your leather back pack, and a warm chunky cable knit sweater? Knee length shorts were frayed as though they started as full length trousers at the beginning of the journey, but as the weather changed the trousers had to go....

...or completely replaced with the more laid back cropped jogging pants.

The tailored pieces were minimilistic and relaxed with collarlessjackets and loafers.

or a suit of matching shirt and shorts in soft brown suede

and here less is definitley more.

The colour pallette included burgundy and navy.

The beret made an appearance.

and the black leather coat and high black polo neck gave off French Resistance vibes.

 Parka style coats came in wool and sheer fabrics. 

For the colder climate was the roomy fur trimmed hooded coat

and preparing to fly in the oversized aviator style shearling jacket.

John Varvatos autumn/winter 2010 collection

For his AW10 collection, designer John Varvatos was thinking of the man who lives fast, travels intensively and wants to look smart but never uptight. The feel was urban with romance underneath still burning bright.

Main colours : slate grey, concrete grey, pearl grey, wine red, purple and steel blue.
Fabrics : washed and soft in cashmere, velvet and moleskin
Knitwear : from chunky and thick to gauzy and thin and include long cardigan jackets, crewnecks, vests and fingerless gloves.
Leathers : worn in and beaten up suede trenches, lambskin blousons and shearling jackets.

Loving the moleskin dinner jacket with satin lapels and a zip edged fabric rose, matched with a longer length zipped waistcoat with unfinished hem.