Edward Crutchley AW19 at London Fashion Week Men's

The swish of a long three-button pin stripe coat welcomes in Edward Crutchleyʼs Autumn/Winter 2019 collection as this season draws on the iconography of work.

A sartorial, no-frills attitude meets brassy textile inspired by the jollity and camp of QVC, that person at the office Christmas party and a maleficent, magnificent Grace Jones in A View to a Kill (1985).

 Signature roomy silhouettes have been slimmed down in homage to the no-nonsense tailoring of mid-1980s Japanese and American RTW.

The attitude is one of dressing for the occasion. Saving that Lurex fil coupé chiffon open collar shirt for the office outing. Dusting off a special Panné velvet suit to wear to dinner.

A new deconstructed snakeskin print is a nod to power dressing, pomp and parties.

Oversized is an attitude more than a covering for the body.

Trousers have zips running down their front creases. A long-sleeved Cuban shirt is in printed velvet.

Crutchley has collaborated with a number of artisanal producers and designers. Merino wool and cashmere jacquard used for outerwear and blankets is from Johnstons of Elgin – makers of the softest cashmere garments in the world.

Classic wool tailoring fabrics are from Yorkshire-based mill Bower Roebuck.
Stephen Jones has designed a riff on a traditional Korean gat and a pillbox hat in soft swakara.

Sunglasses are by sustainable eyewear brand Wires and high-shine loafers are by Christian Louboutin.

Bobby Abley AW19 Collection at London Fashion Week Men's

For Autumn-Winter 2019, Bobby Abley takes inspiration from his family and hometown of Scarborough, where he worked on the collection.

Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, hand knitted by his mother (and other relatives) and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces.The family team of knitters also created cardigans and jumpers in fluorescent colours – a palette which recurs throughout the collection.

Video of catwalk finale:
The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon. Fiery oranges of Charmander,

soft lilac of Mewtwo,

powdery blues of Squirtle

and of course, the unmistakable sunshine yellow of Pikachu.

 These hues appear vividly throughout the collection, along with the characters themselves as repeat motifs.

The Poké Ball is interpreted as a technical poncho, oversized polo shirt, backpack and cross-body bag,

whilst Pokémon-inspired football kits see a return in acid neon.

bley’s characteristic sportswear-inspired and technical fabrics feature heavily, with the addition of corduroy wide-cut trousers,

and a blanket tracksuit with appliquéd leather lettering spelling out ‘Whatever Forever’down the sleeves – the wording of one of the designers many tattoos.

John Lawrence Sullivan SS19 at London Fashion Week Men

The collection’s sharp shouldered angular tailoring is inspired by post punk and new wave. 

After Dark slogan is lifted from one of the pages of Lurker Grand's Hot Love, Swiss Punk & Wave 1976 - 1980

Polka dots come from a promotional image of one of the era's many underground bands

High shine PVC, heavy soled brothel creepers and washed denim feature in the collection. 

Dave Gahan, the frontman of Depeche Mode is another key point of reference - black leather trousers, midriff baring cropped tops and sharp shouldered suits.

Video of finale

http://www.john-lawrence-sullivan.com/

Jamie Wei Huang AW18 Menswear at London Fashion Week.

Titled 'To All the Hearts That Dream' AW 18 is inspired by 1990's Hong Kong, the golden era of the entertainment industry. The legendary figures of the industry revolutionised a new peak. The time was driven by courage, deep longing, and that almost young and foolish fearlessness hearts.A time that feels like it wasn't all that long ago, but the nostalgia it brings is a reminder of what's been missing now.

 . Jamie expresses this with a bold colour palette, youthful denims and tartan prints. Abstract design on green jumper is akin to a crisp falling out of a packet.

.  Trousers are adorned with belts around the knees and ankles

The collection is a dedication to those who dreams, and are stubborn enough to still believe in it.
 AW 18 is a collection about passion and dreams.

Jewellery by "Fang" A London based jewellery designer and a final year student at London College of Fashion. The young rising star is developing her work by exploring sensual and organic shapes and the relationship between natural materials and sensitive techniques.
Photography by Simon Armstrong
Model: Kei Chun Hoi

D.GNAK AW18 collection at London Fashion Week Men's

D.GNAK AW18 is a collision of elevated streetwear, traditional Korean silhouettes and Western tailoring.

This season sees D.GNAK's designer Kang.Dong Jun work mostly in dark velvets

 and rich, tactile wools,

also introducing jacquards.

D.GNAK is known for its intelligent monochromes – articulating concepts without colour. Only black and white fabrics can be found in the AW 18 collection, resulting in a shadow play of light and dark, opposing forces and natures.

Embroideries are present once more, expressing the unique identity and artisan mentality of the brand.

 Alongside memento mori motifs like the skull and crossbones,

Photographer: Mitchel Sams
Video of the show's finale: