Titled 'Code London', this season Duchamp focuses on their key dress codes for the London man across casual, contemporary and formal tailoring.
The set of 5 Duchamp codes for London include Winter Florals, Creative Business, tonal layers, Innovative Textures and Artistic Features.
Winter Florals are worn tonally under contemporary wool suits or taken in to the evening with printed silk shirting under a black woven cocktail jacket.
Creative Business highlights a code of dressing incorporating contemporary tailoring for London's cosmopolitan set who have thrown out traditional city wear in favour of arty details such as a painted two tone single breasted jacket.
Tonal Layers draw attention to the textures of fabric whilst simultaneously introducing the code of Innovative Textures. Clean cottons are worn under wool jackets boasting irregular yarns with brushed jacquard scarves all in complementing tonal colours yet distinguished by the contrasting textures and prints from floral to bold graphic stripes. Elsewhere sleek Moire silk jackets are worn with fine printed silk shirting for effortless tonal layering.
Artistic Features describes the way men will use accessories to express a sense of artistic spirit. Details include paint effects and pencil sketch prints as well as chess inspired motifs.
reporting on men's fashion and grooming
23 January 2016
24 January 2015
Duchamp AW15 Menswear Collection
Colour and fabric are at the forefront for this collection with two prominent stories:
Soft Tailoring and Eveningwear
Soft Tailoring -Slim silhouettes with statement milled cloths.
Blazers include open weave Jaspe effects and woven basket weaves.
Coats with oversized gallis checks, hounds tooth and block coloured wool and cashmere in forest green, blue and monochrome.
Eveningwear
Exclusively printed 50 ounce English silk and Italian velvet dinner jackets showcasing oversized paisley and botanical prints.
Navy tonal silk blazers and refined shirting using contemporary geometric shapes to create texture.
The presentation was held in the plush Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood Hotel , Holborn
with live jazz
Soft Tailoring and Eveningwear
Blazers include open weave Jaspe effects and woven basket weaves.
Coats with oversized gallis checks, hounds tooth and block coloured wool and cashmere in forest green, blue and monochrome.
Eveningwear
Exclusively printed 50 ounce English silk and Italian velvet dinner jackets showcasing oversized paisley and botanical prints.
Navy tonal silk blazers and refined shirting using contemporary geometric shapes to create texture.
The presentation was held in the plush Scarfes Bar at the Rosewood Hotel , Holborn
with live jazz
19 May 2011
Quality suit at good prices - It's all in the detailing
We've looked at the fabric, lining and canvas. Now it's the turn of the little details that maketh the quality suit.
Working Cuffs
The story goes that Napoleon first put buttons on the cuffs of his soldiers’ uniform to stop them from wiping their noses on their sleeves. You’d think that would have been the least of his worries! And those poor soldiers having to look for a handkerchief in the middle of battle!
However, buttons were not put on suit cuffs for the same reason but to enable the sleeves to be rolled back whilst working. These ‘working ‘ cuffs (button holes that actually open), are a sign of a quality suit. And Saville Row go one step further saying that a good suit should always have four buttons on the cuffs.
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| Charle Tyrwhitt navy Italian travel suit |
Charles Tyrwhitt Italian travel suits have working four button cuffs with natural corozo buttons. This collection is a herringbone suit in 3 colour tones –charcoal, black or navy. Normal price is £600 but with their May promotion they are £299. They have a high twist yarn to resist creasing and so perfect for travelling. 2 button single breasted jacket, 100%wool woven in Italy. Trousers half lined to the knees. www.ctshirts.co.uk
Kissing or stacked buttons (slightly overlapping) on jacket sleeves are a sign of a good suit. Originally they indicated that the suit was handmade rather than machine made as the buttons were not perfectly aligned. Now it is possible to have on machine made suits but it is still a sign that some care has been taken to make the suit.
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| Duchamp electric mohair suit at House of Fraser |
Brighten up your day in the Duchamp single breasted electric mohair suit with kissing buttons on the cuffs. Available from House of Fraser. £565
70% wool and 30% kid mohair. Extra detailing is: double vents, angled flap pockets, lilac butterfly jacquard viscose lining, silk woven butterfly pocket triangle on inside, laser cut filigree resin buttons and exclusive butterfly embroidered melton www.houseoffraser.co.uk
Horn Buttons - made from horn or bone rather than plastic. And if you can’t get horn then corozo is a good option. Referred to as ‘vegetable ivory’, corozo buttons have high scratch resistance and can withstand high and cold temperatures, which helps if the suit needs to be dry cleaned.
Charles Tyrwhitt’s suits in their Black label collection have natural horn buttons.
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| Charles Tyrwhitt Classic selection |
Their cheapest range, the Classic wool suit, has natural corozo buttons. The suits come in black & white dogstooth, twill (navy or mid grey), chalk stripe (navy or charcoal) and charcoal sharkskin. These are all 2 button but you can get 3 button suits in navy and mid grey twill. All normally at £400 but in their May promotion for £200. They may be cheaper but they still are great quality with 100% wool, floating canvas chest piece, 4 working button cuff, natural corozo buttons and trousers half lined to the knee. www.ctshirts.co.uk
All prices correct at time of publication
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