Royal Ascot Morning Attire - check out Ede and Ravenscroft

Ede and Ravenscroft are London’s oldest tailor so know a thing or two on how to dress well including the morning suit. www.edeandravenscroft.co.uk

Morning coat: discreet herringbone pattern, super 100s pure wool fabric, buttonhole in lapel with flower loop, traditional single link button closing. Price £495
Waistcoat: adjustable back strap, pure wool black herringbone – black is the most formal option for morning dress Price £125
Trousers: 12oz pure wool worsted houndstooth by Dormeuill. Popular for Royal Ascot. Single pleated, buckle and strap adjusters, internal brace button. Price £195
Shirt: blue and white striped with white collar
Tie: Red and blue polka dot silk tie
They also can provide the top hat!
Top Hat: Edwardian style fur felt polished to give a silk appearance. Crown height 6 ½ inches £

Quality suit at good prices - It's all in the detailing

We've looked at the fabric, lining and canvas. Now it's the turn of the little details that maketh the quality suit.

Working Cuffs 

The story goes that Napoleon first put buttons on the cuffs of his soldiers’ uniform to stop them from wiping their noses on their sleeves.  You’d think that would have been the least of his worries! And those poor soldiers having to look for a handkerchief in the middle of battle! 

 However, buttons were not put on suit cuffs for the same reason but to enable the sleeves to be rolled back whilst working.  These ‘working ‘ cuffs (button holes that actually open), are a sign of a quality suit.  And Saville Row go one step further saying that a good suit should always have four buttons on the cuffs.

Charle Tyrwhitt navy Italian travel suit

Charles Tyrwhitt Italian travel suits have working four button cuffs with natural corozo buttons. This collection is a herringbone suit in 3 colour tones –charcoal, black or navy. Normal price is £600 but with their May promotion they are £299. They have a high twist yarn to resist creasing and so perfect for travelling.  2 button single breasted jacket, 100%wool woven in Italy. Trousers half lined to the knees. www.ctshirts.co.uk

Kissing or stacked buttons (slightly overlapping) on jacket sleeves are a sign of a good suit. Originally they indicated that the suit was handmade rather than machine made as the buttons were not perfectly aligned.  Now it is possible to have on machine made suits but it is still a sign that some care has been taken to make the suit.

Duchamp electric mohair suit at House of Fraser

Brighten up your day in the Duchamp single breasted electric mohair suit with kissing buttons on the cuffs. Available from House of Fraser. £565

70% wool and 30% kid mohair. Extra detailing is:  double vents, angled flap pockets, lilac butterfly jacquard viscose lining, silk woven butterfly pocket triangle on inside, laser cut filigree resin buttons and exclusive butterfly embroidered melton www.houseoffraser.co.uk

Horn Buttons - made from horn or bone rather than plastic. And if you can’t get horn then corozo is a good option. Referred to as ‘vegetable ivory’, corozo buttons have high scratch resistance and can withstand high and cold temperatures, which helps if the suit needs to be dry cleaned.

Charles Tyrwhitt’s suits in their Black label collection have natural horn buttons.

Charles Tyrwhitt Classic selection

Their cheapest range, the Classic wool suit, has natural corozo buttons.  The suits come in black & white dogstooth, twill (navy or mid grey), chalk stripe (navy or charcoal) and charcoal sharkskin. These are all 2 button but you can get 3 button suits in navy and mid grey twill. All normally at £400 but in their May promotion for £200. They may be cheaper but they still are great quality with 100% wool, floating canvas chest piece, 4 working button cuff, natural corozo buttons and trousers half lined to the knee. www.ctshirts.co.uk

All prices correct at time of publication

Country Tweeds-the modern sports jacket

Adapted from the hacking jacket, the modern sports jacket has longer lapels with either one or two buttons. The flapped pockets may or may not be slanted, and it usually has side vents for easy access to trouser back pockets. By the early 1900s it became fashionable for men to wear sports jackets at the more casual social functions rather than just keep them for sporting activities, and the jackets began to have a simpler cut losing the more practical sporting features such as the belt and bulky pockets.
The modern tweed jacket ranges from the classic to the trendy:

Devonport London, a newly-launched menswear brand, concentrates on the qualities of tradition, heritage and highly-skilled craftsmanship shunning the use of adhesives and other modern fusion techniques, looking instead to the traditional methods of hand-stitching, loose horsehair interlinings and hand-making collars.
www.devonportlondon.com

Whilst New Look brings tweeds to the younger man who doesn’t want to spend too much and just wants to have fun with the look, layering and mixing with other fabrics and textures such as jeans. www.newlook.com Whatever your style is there will be a Tweed jacket out there for you.