Keep Warm in the Duffle Coat

It's freezing out there and if you need a warm casual coat then check out the Duffle Coat.

This style has been yoyoing in and out of popularity since WW2 when it was standard issue in the British Royal Navy. This  ¾ length coat was ideal to keep protected from the high seas with a hood, easy to fasten and unfasten wooden toggles and large patch pockets to keep your hands warm. It was worn by all ranks, came in camel only and became famously associated with Field Marshal Montgomery which led to the coat being affectionately nicknamed the ‘Monty’

The British firm Gloverall started off selling navy surplus duffle coats in 1951 but soon moved on to producing their own style of duffle in 1954.

 Monty duffle

The original Monty style was knee length with wooden toggles and jute rope fastening. 

Gloverall still make this original style plus an updated mid length version in navy and the original camel.

Fabric: 90% boiled wool and 10% pa cloth

Price: £270

www.gloverall.com

Gloverall duffle

However it is what is called a Gloverall duffle that is the most popular style today.

With buffalo horn toggles instead of wood and leather fastenings instead of rope, large pockets with flaps and the check interior double faced fabric.

Fabric: 80% wool, 20% pa.

Price was £295. 

Available in a variety of colours

www.gloverall.com

 

Raf Simons

Belgian menswear designer Raf Simons takes the duffle back to its roots.  The name derives from the Antwerp province of Duffel where the thick woollen fabric used to make the coat originated from. The duffel coat was a key piece on his AW11 catwalk show.

Simons mixes tradition with contemporary: the camel colour is both traditional and also on trend for this season, the toggles off to the side mimic the original Monty but the double rope fastening  does not stretch over the front so gives the coat a more tailored and minimalistic look.  Horn toggles are partnered with a double rope fastening instead of the leather.

 Mr Porter is having a sale and Raf Simon’s duffle coat is reduced by 50% from £830 to £415.

Fabric: 100% wool with 50% viscose and 50% cupro lining.

www.mrporter.com

 

                                           

ASOS duffle

ASOS makes the duffle coat in to a jacket with its short bonded wool duffle coat.  Unlike Raf Simons simplistic style, here the white thick twisted rope cord fastening stands out prominently from the navy as a kind of embellishment giving a slight military feel to the whole look

This short style is better suited for the smaller guy. Because the toggle fastenings are prominent and stop quite high up the coat, the taller guy will just look as though he’s outgrown his duffle.

Fabric: 62% polyester, 34%wool, 3%acrylic and 1% nylon Price £85

Seen here with chunky mittens £10, cropped trousers £32 and chukka boots £50.

 All from www.asos.com

Smart Casual Winter Jacket - The Pea Coat

The pea coat is more of a jacket but has been a winter favourite since the 18^th Century when it became the outerwear uniform of the British and Dutch navies.  It is thought the name came from the  Dutch word ‘pij ‘ which is the name of the coarse cloth the jacket was most commonly made from.  In the 20^th century the US navy took a liking to it and also started issuing them as uniform.

The original pea coat style has stood the test of time and has not changed much in design or from the navy colour. The double breast style was for added warmth;  the collar and lapels were broad and the sailors would pull them up to protect themselves from the cold sea wind; buttons were large and made of wood or brass and often decorated with anchors , and the style of the pockets were of the slash variety. 

J. Crew Bayswater dark navy pea coat has kept close to the original boxy style with its wide lapels, double breasted front, slash pockets and naval anchor design on the buttons.

Fabric: 100% wool. Body lining: 100% cotton. Sleeve lining 100% polyester. Thin padding of 65% olefin and 35% polyester.

Price:  £275 available from www.mrporter.com

 

The navy blue Woolrich Woolen Mills pea coat is padded for extra warmth and has four front pockets: two large patch pockets and two slit pockets higher up –an ideal place to keep your betting slips handy.

 Fabric: 85% wool, 15% nylon. Padding 100% polyester

Price:  £620 Available from www.mrporter.com

Last year, Topman collaborated with a few talented young designers to give the Pea coat a modern makeover. These new contemporary styles were launched in selected Topman stores and independent boutiques globally.

American menswear designer Tim Hamilton created a shorter version in black with mirrored buttons and a detachable faux leather quilted zip through waistcoat giving an overall chunkier look. The waistcoat provides added warmth on the colder days whilst being detachable makes this jacket more flexible for the warmer days.

Fabric: 57% wool, 30% polyester, 5% viscose, 4% nylon, 4% acrylic

Price:  Was £180 now in the sale at £60.

Available online www.topman.com

Burberry Prorsum have added their own sartorial edge with a leather trim, epaulettes and button tabs at the cuffs and waist. Plus they’ve swapped the conservative navy and black for a bold statement red and black plaid. You’re sure to be seen in the crowds.

Fabric:  38% polyester, 23% acrylic, 13% wool, 10% mohair, 10% nylon, 6% rayon.

Price: Was £1955, now in the sale with 50% off at £997.50

Available from www.mrporter.com

And luxury menswear designer Brian Clarke is taking no chances with the cold weather and has used faux fur for his pea coat.

Price £800 and available from his flagship store at 26 Paddington Street, Marylebone, London W1U 5QY, or online www.brianclarkemenswear.com

 

Mr Porter Does Xmas in Velvet Slipper Shoes

Mr Porter, the sartorial online store for the fashionable man, is slipping into something more comfortable with their dapper velvet slipper shoes:

Alexander McQueen – Embroidered Velvet Slippers.

For a touch of Goth, go for McQueen’s black velvet slippers which are embroidered with a golden skull on the front. These outdoor slippers are piped in grosgrain ribbon and have a leather lining and sole.

 Price £325 

 

Jimmy Choo – Paisley Patterned Loafer 

For the more flamboyant who like to make a statement. 

This loafer has a patent leather piping, leather sole and midsole. The jewel toned velvet print is paisley but look closely and you’ll see James Bondesque female silhouettes dancing around the pattern.

Price £495 

Dolce & Gabanna – the Classic Velvet Shoe 

For those of you who prefer lace ups, Dolce& Gabanna have a velvet derby shoe with leather interior and soles.  Less ostentatious than the velvet slipper but definitely still a Prince of a shoe with its understated elegant look.

 Price £350 Available in black only.

All available from www.mrporter.com

Celebrate in style with a Champagne Velvet Jacket

For the dressy look you don’t have to stick to black, other rich colours will also work.

Champagne Velvet

Get in to the party atmosphere with this champagne coloured Canali two button blazer, notched lapel, two flap pockets, chest pocket and double vents.

Fabric: 100% cotton and 100% cupro lining. Price £640

This is a great shade for those of you with a pale complexion as black and the other dark colours may wash you out.

Team with light chinos or stone washed denims and a shirt or tee shirt. Marc by Marc Jacobs flecked cotton tee in blue, light brown and green fleck would do nicely. Price £85

Both available from www.mrporter.com