3 March 2018

Malan Breton AW18 menswear at London Fashion Week

Titled 'Omega', this last letter of the Greek alphabet signifies the end of a journey to one’s clarity and self.

The collection has a theatrical flair with inspiration drawn from Edwardian Tarot, the wizard Merlin,

 and  Chinese astrology


But it also shows a darker side with inspiration from the myth of the four horsemen of the apocalypse- . The four riders symbolizing Conquest, War, Famine, and Death.


 “This collection, has been a journey of self-realisation, a point of gaining ones hope back in humanity. Rebuilding one's shell, one’s armour, one’s heart. Love lost, valour, and watching gluttony, and greed change humanity for the worst....” – Malan Breton


Photos by Simon Armstrong
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17 January 2018

Pronounce AW18 presented by GQ China at London Fashion Week Men's

Pronounce was presented by GQ China at London Fashion Week Men's
Inspiration came from 21 vintage postcards collected in the East Market in Milan's Via Private Giovanni Venture. These postcatds captured travel, life and traditional men's dress style
Two infitinity signs constantly appeared on the postcards and lead to the core story line of the AW18 collection - Infinities.

Eastern and Western cultural fusion continues in the collection.The curve metallic button replaces the traditional horns button.

 Inspired by the button from an original Chinese suit, Pronounce use the tailoring techniques with Mao suit combining this into one collection

Knitwear is tactile ranging from chunky cable knit to cosy teddy bear mohair


Overcoats are long and voluminous - your very own transportable duvet!

Some in shiny PVC

Video of show's finale:


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Tourne de Transmission AW18 collection at London Fashion Week Men's

Inspiration for AW18 came from photographer Leah Gordon’s book ‘Kanaval’ which  documents the carnivals of south Haiti in their various forms over a period of years.

Tourne de Transmission's creative director, Graeme Gaughan was struck by how the people of Haiti used the theatrical elements of Kanaval to offer reminders to the authorities about their failings through the abuse of power.

 The sartorial traditions of Kanaval have  been pivotal in shaping this collection. From the use of materials and fabrics, through to the shapes and silhouettes.

 Tailoring has been cut with an unorthodox fit, inspired by the Haitian boys in Gordon’s images who wear mens suiting.

They give a flat 2D shape when worn, echoing back to questions on 2D tourism.


 The juxtaposition of femininity across the men’s outfits of Kanaval are also reflected via fabrics, pleats and shapes.

 Artist Johnny Brophy has collaborated to create brooches and accessories mirroring elements of decoration & masquerade from Kanaval.


 Keen’s Uneek open air footwear is also used for their adaptation of intricate detailing, complimenting and reflecting other hand made elements seen across range.

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Belstaff AW18 collection at London Fashion Week Men's

Delphine Ninous, Belstaff's Creative Director, found her seasonal inspiration looking into English subcultures: “I started looking at youth movements since the 1950s, referencing the vitality and energy of sub-cultures such as the mods, punks, rockers and skins, who all in very different ways sought to express an inter-generational clash though music and fashion. As I discovered through the Archive many were wearing our iconic jackets and customising them. This season these themes are played out in our iconic silhouettes such as the field jacket, parka, biker and bomber. We wanted to celebrate our heritage but also shine a light on our spirit of innovation whilst remaining modern and looking to our future.”


Waved Cotton Belstaff’s heritage silhouettes have all been updated for AW18 in a palette of deep hues including earthy greens, muddy blues, oxblood and copper. 

New for this season is a tumbled coated cotton that creates a graphite effect with a barely there sparkle in Harrington, Rebel Motorbike and Trialmaster silhouettes.Detail patches usually seen on the inside of army jackets now appear stitched on the exterior, alongside reflective taping. The lining directly references the red check from the punk era to evoke a sense of customisation and individuality. This group of jackets will be made entirely in the UK


 Belstaff continues to evolve the parka style - Both long and short styles come with coyote fur or shearling-lined hoods, while a deep-winter version affords extra protection and warmth in the way of wadding.

 ‘Explorer’ versions in a bold red and orange and filled with a heavy down offer excellent functionality, while a more fashion-focused style for men features a coat with a graphic matt-black diagonal bonding stripe and a short removable parka lining.

 Bombers are a key genre this season and as such have been further expanded with new styles in leather, shearling, along with more technical lightweight nylon.

 A padded bomber with contrast orange lining evokes the classic military bomber styles of the 1960s which were widely appropriated by Britain’s youth cultures who repurposed them from Army surplus stores


 A leather moto jacket comes with painted white sleeves, white zippers and red lining, referencing the customisation of punk movements..


Rich, warm shearling has been applied to all of Belstaff’s classic silhouettes together with a new four-pocket silhouette.

 A real showpiece is the; mid-length shearling jacket in a deep olive green with black bonded taping details on the shoulders that completely reverses to show a rich shearling fur exterior

Sportswear and Jersey -  a continuation of the SS18 tracksuit style sees more muted autumnal hues with updated piping details. Men’s jersey comes with rubberised logo elements in a neoprene-style fabric. T-shirts with graphic prints inspired by music bands of the era.

Footwear -  military styles dominate - a  rugged black combat style adorned with contrasting white laces.,

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13 January 2018

Bobby Abley AW18 Collection at London Fashion Week Men's

Titled  Bobbyland – the collection takes you to a vibrant and colourful place.

 Populated with characters from the world of Warner Bros Looney Tunes – including Road Runner and Sylvester


- Bobbyland welcomes everyone both international and interplanetary – including Marvin the Martian who appears on the back of his own Legal Alien sweatshirt which was created exclusively for Urban Outfitters.

And also centre stage on the intarsia knit collaborated with Electronic Sheep


 Colour and texture are key to the collection, with brightly-hued oversized plaid shirts and pleated tailored trousers,

 and knitwear by Electronic Sheep splicing Looney Tunes graphics in clashing tones.


 Outerwear includes faux fur trimmed padded bomber jackets

 and roomy parkas in neoprene and mohair adorned with jewels.


A signature Tweety Pie sweatshirt is embellished with hand-applied marabou,

 and fluffy Bugs Bunny inspired dungarees are worn with a bunny ears bandana and gold grill by Shadi at Gold Pointers.

 Bobbyland; Where Everyone is Welcome.
Footwear by Timberland

Grillz by Shadi at Gold Pointers


Video of show's finale:

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