12 February 2012

Keep Warm in the Duffle Coat

It's freezing out there and if you need a warm casual coat then check out the Duffle Coat.
This style has been yoyoing in and out of popularity since WW2 when it was standard issue in the British Royal Navy. This  ¾ length coat was ideal to keep protected from the high seas with a hood, easy to fasten and unfasten wooden toggles and large patch pockets to keep your hands warm. It was worn by all ranks, came in camel only and became famously associated with Field Marshal Montgomery which led to the coat being affectionately nicknamed the ‘Monty’
The British firm Gloverall started off selling navy surplus duffle coats in 1951 but soon moved on to producing their own style of duffle in 1954.
 Monty duffle

The original Monty style was knee length with wooden toggles and jute rope fastening. 
Gloverall still make this original style plus an updated mid length version in navy and the original camel.
Fabric: 90% boiled wool and 10% pa cloth
Price: £270

Gloverall duffle

However it is what is called a Gloverall duffle that is the most popular style today.
With buffalo horn toggles instead of wood and leather fastenings instead of rope, large pockets with flaps and the check interior double faced fabric.
Fabric: 80% wool, 20% pa.
Price was £295. 
Available in a variety of colours

Raf Simons

Belgian menswear designer Raf Simons takes the duffle back to its roots.  The name derives from the Antwerp province of Duffel where the thick woollen fabric used to make the coat originated from. The duffel coat was a key piece on his AW11 catwalk show.
Simons mixes tradition with contemporary: the camel colour is both traditional and also on trend for this season, the toggles off to the side mimic the original Monty but the double rope fastening  does not stretch over the front so gives the coat a more tailored and minimalistic look.  Horn toggles are partnered with a double rope fastening instead of the leather.
 Mr Porter is having a sale and Raf Simon’s duffle coat is reduced by 50% from £830 to £415.
Fabric: 100% wool with 50% viscose and 50% cupro lining.

ASOS duffle

ASOS makes the duffle coat in to a jacket with its short bonded wool duffle coat.  Unlike Raf Simons simplistic style, here the white thick twisted rope cord fastening stands out prominently from the navy as a kind of embellishment giving a slight military feel to the whole look
This short style is better suited for the smaller guy. Because the toggle fastenings are prominent and stop quite high up the coat, the taller guy will just look as though he’s outgrown his duffle.
Fabric: 62% polyester, 34%wool, 3%acrylic and 1% nylon Price £85
Seen here with chunky mittens £10, cropped trousers £32 and chukka boots £50.
 All from www.asos.com
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