27 January 2018

Louis Gabriel Nouchi AW18 Collection at Men's Paris Fashion Week

Louis Gabriel Nouchi takes a contemporary take on cut and silhouette

Loose knitted sleeves cover jackets and coats' own sleeves.

Seams on tops are partially unstiched

Colour palette is neutral shades of grey, black and white colour pops of red

Photography by Emilie Gomez
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Marosbaran AW18 Collection at Men's Paris Fashion Week

Titled 'The Imperial Phase', the Slovakian fashion designer and artist's AW18 collections focuses on menswear and definition of the paradox

The paradox of using feminine fabrics on masculine clothing such as floral lace on a bomber jacket and  hoodie

the delicate plisse pleat in pale yellow on shorts and a hoodie, and winter white on collarless shirts

and the diaphanous tulle in bright red and turquoise

Metallics give a soft sheen to boxer hoodies like molten liquid.

Prints include a bold floral print on coats and short suits, a more subtle paisley jacquard on shorts, trousers and long waistcoat and comic style hero print on leggings.

Edges are frayed on shorts and knitwear

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Ernest W. Baker AW18 Collection at Men's Paris Fashion Week

The founder's Grandfather , Ernest W. Baker, and early Detroit ad man, serves as a muse for the brand's identity.

 Studying his personal journals from the 70's & 80's were the starting point for the Autumn Winter 18 collection.

A precise consideration for colors and feelings are referenced as an intention is made to create garments that feel as if they were taken from Ernest's closet.

 Shades of brown leather, tonal checks and handmade sweaters in a chunky mustard yellow are used in reference to a palette of the 70's,

 while the injection of color in purple velvet give a more optimistic feeling of the 80's.

The aesthetic is then taken forward, drawing from the perspective of David Lynch. Inspired from the surrealistic world developed in his "Twin Peaks" series, a link is established between classic European dress and a western American spirit.

 Long, oversized coating is an important aspect in the collection, creating a sense of mysteriousness.

 John Wayne hats, tuxedo shirts and classic check patterns are a nod to an Americana style,

while the structured blazers, ascots and velvet tailoring are inspired from a classic European elegance.

 Although the looks present a pure rigidity, there is a sense of irony in each of them, with an intention to convert the model into an Ernest character playing in the Twin Peaks series.

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Arthur Avellano AW18 Collection at Men's Paris Fashion Week

Titled 'Le Banquet'. Arthur Avellano brings a feast of an AW18 collection.

Avellano mainly works with latex and leathers to create his collections and AW18 did not disappoint.
A practical fabric for outerwear, latex brings an edge to the classic trenchcoat ,

Puffer jackets ..
and the bomber jacket

Trousers are either designed as practical straight latex jeans

 or ostentatiously voluminous whilst skimming the floor.

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17 January 2018

Pronounce AW18 presented by GQ China at London Fashion Week Men's

Pronounce was presented by GQ China at London Fashion Week Men's
Inspiration came from 21 vintage postcards collected in the East Market in Milan's Via Private Giovanni Venture. These postcatds captured travel, life and traditional men's dress style
Two infitinity signs constantly appeared on the postcards and lead to the core story line of the AW18 collection - Infinities.

Eastern and Western cultural fusion continues in the collection.The curve metallic button replaces the traditional horns button.

 Inspired by the button from an original Chinese suit, Pronounce use the tailoring techniques with Mao suit combining this into one collection

Knitwear is tactile ranging from chunky cable knit to cosy teddy bear mohair

Overcoats are long and voluminous - your very own transportable duvet!

Some in shiny PVC

Video of show's finale:

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