17 January 2018

Pronounce AW18 presented by GQ China at London Fashion Week Men's

Pronounce was presented by GQ China at London Fashion Week Men's
Inspiration came from 21 vintage postcards collected in the East Market in Milan's Via Private Giovanni Venture. These postcatds captured travel, life and traditional men's dress style
Two infitinity signs constantly appeared on the postcards and lead to the core story line of the AW18 collection - Infinities.

Eastern and Western cultural fusion continues in the collection.The curve metallic button replaces the traditional horns button.

 Inspired by the button from an original Chinese suit, Pronounce use the tailoring techniques with Mao suit combining this into one collection

Knitwear is tactile ranging from chunky cable knit to cosy teddy bear mohair


Overcoats are long and voluminous - your very own transportable duvet!

Some in shiny PVC

Video of show's finale:


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Tourne de Transmission AW18 collection at London Fashion Week Men's

Inspiration for AW18 came from photographer Leah Gordon’s book ‘Kanaval’ which  documents the carnivals of south Haiti in their various forms over a period of years.

Tourne de Transmission's creative director, Graeme Gaughan was struck by how the people of Haiti used the theatrical elements of Kanaval to offer reminders to the authorities about their failings through the abuse of power.

 The sartorial traditions of Kanaval have  been pivotal in shaping this collection. From the use of materials and fabrics, through to the shapes and silhouettes.

 Tailoring has been cut with an unorthodox fit, inspired by the Haitian boys in Gordon’s images who wear mens suiting.

They give a flat 2D shape when worn, echoing back to questions on 2D tourism.


 The juxtaposition of femininity across the men’s outfits of Kanaval are also reflected via fabrics, pleats and shapes.

 Artist Johnny Brophy has collaborated to create brooches and accessories mirroring elements of decoration & masquerade from Kanaval.


 Keen’s Uneek open air footwear is also used for their adaptation of intricate detailing, complimenting and reflecting other hand made elements seen across range.

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Belstaff AW18 collection at London Fashion Week Men's

Delphine Ninous, Belstaff's Creative Director, found her seasonal inspiration looking into English subcultures: “I started looking at youth movements since the 1950s, referencing the vitality and energy of sub-cultures such as the mods, punks, rockers and skins, who all in very different ways sought to express an inter-generational clash though music and fashion. As I discovered through the Archive many were wearing our iconic jackets and customising them. This season these themes are played out in our iconic silhouettes such as the field jacket, parka, biker and bomber. We wanted to celebrate our heritage but also shine a light on our spirit of innovation whilst remaining modern and looking to our future.”


Waved Cotton Belstaff’s heritage silhouettes have all been updated for AW18 in a palette of deep hues including earthy greens, muddy blues, oxblood and copper. 

New for this season is a tumbled coated cotton that creates a graphite effect with a barely there sparkle in Harrington, Rebel Motorbike and Trialmaster silhouettes.Detail patches usually seen on the inside of army jackets now appear stitched on the exterior, alongside reflective taping. The lining directly references the red check from the punk era to evoke a sense of customisation and individuality. This group of jackets will be made entirely in the UK


 Belstaff continues to evolve the parka style - Both long and short styles come with coyote fur or shearling-lined hoods, while a deep-winter version affords extra protection and warmth in the way of wadding.

 ‘Explorer’ versions in a bold red and orange and filled with a heavy down offer excellent functionality, while a more fashion-focused style for men features a coat with a graphic matt-black diagonal bonding stripe and a short removable parka lining.

 Bombers are a key genre this season and as such have been further expanded with new styles in leather, shearling, along with more technical lightweight nylon.

 A padded bomber with contrast orange lining evokes the classic military bomber styles of the 1960s which were widely appropriated by Britain’s youth cultures who repurposed them from Army surplus stores


 A leather moto jacket comes with painted white sleeves, white zippers and red lining, referencing the customisation of punk movements..


Rich, warm shearling has been applied to all of Belstaff’s classic silhouettes together with a new four-pocket silhouette.

 A real showpiece is the; mid-length shearling jacket in a deep olive green with black bonded taping details on the shoulders that completely reverses to show a rich shearling fur exterior

Sportswear and Jersey -  a continuation of the SS18 tracksuit style sees more muted autumnal hues with updated piping details. Men’s jersey comes with rubberised logo elements in a neoprene-style fabric. T-shirts with graphic prints inspired by music bands of the era.

Footwear -  military styles dominate - a  rugged black combat style adorned with contrasting white laces.,

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15 January 2018

Blood Brother AW18 menswear at London Fashion Week Men's

For AW18 Blood Brother takes a look into the Instant Win, Instant Lifestyle promised to us by the National Lottery. - saying  IT COULD BE YOU.

Exploring the theme of quick wins and ‘loadsamoney’, Blood Brother looks at the sinister side of immediate excess.

The vulgarity and overindulgence that comes with a huge windfall, blowing it all on monogrammed swimming pools, souped up custom motorbikes and a helipad. Graphic prints continue to be a key feature of the Blood Brother style, featuring scratch cards and player receipts

plus symbols of ostentatious success such as the ‘Hot Tub Club’ and ‘Money Bags’.

 Satin suit pieces in retro jewel colours, featuring the ultimate extravagance - a pet tiger, paying homage to the depressing faded opulence of Las Vegas.

 Taking inspiration from a lifestyle of excess, the collection references 80’s ski wear, exotic animals and the ultimate ‘new money’ style icons – the gangsters.

 Diamond quilted puffas and ski suits in Rolex green and metallic gold, gives a nod to luxury Chesterfield sofas,

 whilst oversized ski salopettes and chalet knits in chenille wool complete the apres-ski look.

The theme of garish luxury is realised in animal faux furs and snakeskin prints.


. Repeat print Swarovski crystal embellishment across crisp white denim and luxurious tracksuits reflect the outlook of those with a penchant for life in the fast lane.

 For AW18 Blood Brother merges the tracksuit, with tailoring details including bungy cords and a zippable lapel for a sartorial streetwear aesthetic.


 Blood Brother updates their popular cross body bag with drawstring pouch detailing and adding larger sizes of ‘stash-cash’ kit bags.

 Scarves, hats and socks are in sulphur yellows and knitted golds.

For a second season, Blood Brother has partnered with Cutler & Gross. For FW18, a selection of glasses have been chosen from the archive collection with a focus on vintage frames in translucent and coloured lenses for a retro feel.


 Blood Brother have worked exclusively alongside luxury international shoe brand Jimmy Choo, featuring four styles including fur lined slip-ons

 black patent leather loafers
Military style boots and soft leather trainers in fresh whites, deep burgundy and black.

Photographers: Daniel Bruno Grandi @Theurbanspotter / Mohamed Abdulle / Thai Hibbert

Video of show's finale:

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