Loafing around on the long weekend

The sun is out and due to the Royal wedding, the weekend is extra long. So why not loaf around in style with a pair of loafers?
These slip ons are designed for comfort and are definitely more convenient than the lace ups when slipping on a pair. There are a type of moccasin adapted by the Norwegians and became a hit in America. The Spaulding family in New Hampshire started to make them and called them loafers after an Esquire feature of Norwegian farmers in a cattle loafing area.
Although these are the more casual of the pack they can make the grade with decorative vamp designs and with fuller bottoms which give more scale and stature.

The Plain loafer – no decoration on the front.

For his plain fronted  loafer, Udeshi found one of the last few remaining workshops where the  calf suede uppers of the shoe were still sewn by hand using waxed linen thread, the way it should be, which provides sufficient strength but flexibility. This enabled him to create a comfortable loafer which was soft enough to wear without socks but durable enough to take several summers and not  fall apart in one weekend.. The loafers come in black, chocolate, tobacco and purple suede and retail for £295. They also come in kangaroo leather which is soft, supple and thinner , thus perfect for a lightweight summer shoe to be worn without socks. www.udeshi.co.uk

 Or visit his stand alone shop at 8 Davies Street, London W1K 3DW. Tel:020 7495 1333

Zanacco adds a leather string to their bow with their calf leather Dante loafers in vegetable  Indian Red (£365.00) www.zanacco.com

Zanaccco prides itself on being 100% made in Italy, and being the first eco-luxury shoe brand for men.  The shoes are all handmade by local craftsmen from Vigevano. This is the home town of Jasmine Zanacco who wants to inject life back in to the place which once was known as the shoe capital of Italy. And eco-friendly luxury materials are used such as vegetable tanned leather, water based glue and biodegradable oils.

 

Angelo Galasso adds texture and structure to his leather loafers with the square perforations and the chocolate brown colour graduating from mid to a darker tone around at the toe caps. £520 . 8-10 Hans Road London. 0207 584 3978

Observing the Spectator Shoe

Spectator shoes or Correspondent shoes are full or semi Brogues in 2 contrasting colours. Originally worn by cricketers in the 1800’s and then made famous by the favoured shoes of co-respondents in divorce cases. Later the spectator shoes were worn by yachtsmen and at leisure sporting events, but now more commonly worn by golfers.

Angelo Galasso

Not as popular for everyday wear but Angelo Galasso does a great take on them. His stone washed blue canvas brogues have a blue nappa wing cap and heel.

Angelo Galasso

Whilst his grey suede semi brogues have just their toe caps in a contrasting chestnut brown leather with the AG monogramme perforation. Both £480.00 and can be purchased at his stand alone shop at 8-10 Hans Road London. 0207 584 3978.

Zanacco the Italian eco-luxury brand also has their take on the spectator shoe with the Angelo Brown a vegetable tanned calf 2 toned leather retailing at £390.www.zanacco.com

Zanaccco prides itself on being 100% made in Italy, and being the first eco-luxury shoe brand for men.  The shoes are all handmade by local craftsmen from Vigevano. This is the home town of Jasmine Zanacco who wants to inject life back in to the place which once was known as the shoe capital of Italy. And eco-friendly luxury materials are used such as vegetable tanned leather, water based glue and biodegradable oils.

Don't do anything by half - unless it's a Brogue Shoe

Semi or half brogues were first designed by John Lobb on an Oxford in 1937 to give their customers a shoe more casual than a plain oxford but more refined than the full brogue. 

John Lobb

Here the decorative perforations and serration goes only along the caps edge with additional decorative perforations in the centre of the toe cap. John Lobb holds two Royal Warrants and all their shoes are handmade to measure, costing approx £2620.00 plus VAT from www.johnlobbltd.co.uk or from their London shop at 9 St James’s St (the very spot once occupied by Lord Byron’s bachelor pad).

Tricker's Kensington

For a cheaper and ready to wear pair, Trickers has the Kensington, a semi brogue in black from their 1829 collection, price £305.00 www.trickers.com or 67 Jermyn Street London

THE BROGUE – the country shoe with soggy origins..

This hardy shoe has soggy origins. Originating in Scotland and Ireland, it started as heavy untanned leather with perforations which were not for decoration but to allow water to drain from the shoes whilst walking through bogs and other wet lands. Brogueing now is purely decorative. The name derived from Brog which is Gaelic for shoe. It became a country walking and sports shoe when the gentry saw the benefits.
A Brogue can be any style of shoe Oxford, Derby, Monk etc, but it becomes a Brogue due to the decorative perforations and serration along edges of the leather. There are also different types of Brogues:

The Full Brogues or Wingtips- called a wingtip because the style forms a W shape and looks similar to a bird with extended wings. This W shape is perforated and serrated along the edges and usually there are additional decorative perforations in the centre of the toe cap

Loake's full oxford brogue from www.rubbersoles.co.uk

Loake from Northampton is most famous for its Goodyear welted footwear and make the traditional full brogue in the oxford style at a reasonable price of £94.99 sold through www.rubbersole.co.uk . This comes in brown or black and Rubber Sole offer free next day delivery to any UK mainland destination if you order before 4pm.

Grenson's Noble oxford brogue

Another heritage brand from the Northampton shoe capital is Grenson established in 1866 and re-launched in 2006 by new owner and creative director Tim Little “to bring the iconic brogue to a new generation of men”. Here they show that full brogues can range from the fine to the chunky.
For the more understated elegant look Grenson’s Noble oxford type full brogue has tiny punching and the design is kept to a minimum to provide a lighter weight brogue. The price is also of lightweight design, originally £150 but on sale for £120. Calf leather comes in tan (as shown in image), or black. www.grenson.co.uk

Grenson's Archie derby brogue

For the chunkier brogue Grenson have the derby style shoe Archie with its oversized perforations and thick triple leather soles.The only thing not exaggerated about this shoe is the price at a reasonable £180. Comes in honey calf hi shine leather (as shown in image), or tan and black calf smooth leather.

H by Husdon's Rafferty oxford brogue

H by Hudson, the errant younger brother branch of Hudson shoes, throws their full brogues in to the washing machine to create an all over washed look. Don’t try this at home though (especially not with the whites) as Hudson does use a careful process of washing the shoes to transform them in to a vintage look. Their Rafferty shoe is a washed brown vintage look brogue with a hidden elastic section for added comfort and ease of wear. Price £100 in brown or black from www.hudsonshoes.com

J Shoes' Charlie oxford brogues

For another youthful look go for J. Shoes from www.jshoes.com . Their Charlie brogues have the faded look and come in dark grey, peanut, brown and bone colour – the peanut and bone are great shades for the summer months.

Angelo Galasso oxford brogues

Also for the summer months there are the light weight Angelo Galasso white oxford brogues with pale blue trim and AG perforated on the toe cap. – can be purchased at his stand alone shop at 8-10 Hans Road London. 0207 584 3978.

Herring's Disraeli monk brogue

And for the Monk style, go to Herrings own range of footwear made for them by Barkers, Cheaney, Loakes and Sargents on www.herringsshoes.co.uk Here shown in chestnut calf leather , the Disraeli from their Premier Collection also comes in black calf leather. Price £225.00

Nothing soggy about the brogue now!

The other brogue styles to follow in next blog.

Wholecut Shoe - The Wholesome Style

The wholecut is probably the oldest style dating back to the time when a single piece of leather was just wrapped round the wearer’s foot, this style now epitomises simple chic elegance.

Lodger's Audley English Wholecut shoe

Lodger’s signature shoe is the Audley English whole cut. The clean line of this style allows the rich Oxblood colour to take centre stage. Priced at £475

www.lodgersfootwear.co.uk

Or their London shop in 15C Clifford Street London.

Edwards of Manchester wholecut woven shoe

However if you prefer your whole cuts to be not as simple then there is always Edwards of Manchester’s 3 eyelet whole cut in brown woven calf with leather sole. Normal price £185 but on sale at £135. www.edwardsofmanchester.co.uk or 61, Deansgate, Barton Arcade Manchester.