However the name the American’s use, the Blucher, comes from the Prussian General Gebhard Leberecht von Blucher. He decided his troops needed better shoes whilst fighting Napoleon, so he commissioned a boot where the side pieces lapped over the front. This style was adopted by armies across Europe and they soon became the fashion for a sporting and hunting shoe in the 1850’s. But now they are popular in the city.
The characteristics of the Derby is the open lacing where the shoelace eyelet tabs are sewn on top or the vamp, the tongue of the shoe is made with the same piece of leather as the vamp and of course the side pieces lapping over the front. These side straps make the shoe not as dressy as the oxford or monk shoes. The open lacing is more comfortable for men with wider feet than the closed lacing, as it is easier to adjust.
Crockett & Jones Dartmouth shoe |
They don’t have a wide distribution in the UK other than their own London and Birmingham retail stores, and don’t sell online. But you can visit their website for the stores addresses: www.crockettandjones.co.uk
Lodger's Hoxley shoe |
Lodger’s Hoxley 2 lace derby shoe, from their Italian contemporary range, is a work of art with its hand painted rum colour showing dark and light strokes. Price £475
Or their London shop in 15C Clifford Street London.
Eden Park |
Italian eco luxury brand Zanacco’s vegetable tanned derby called Rino looks elegant in frond which is a dark blue colour at £365.00. Vegetable tanning is without the use of heavy chemicals ensuring the waste is not harmful to the environment and the artisan is not affected whist working with the leathers. And as the leathers turn out softer on average than the typical tanned leathers, this is good news for you the wearer. www.zanacco.com
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