men's styling

14 January 2015

TURNBULL & ASSER AW15 LC:M PRESENTATION‏

Turnbull & Asser delve into a provocative world of espionage for Autumn Winter 2015 with a collection that boldly celebrates this movement and the iconic films which encapsulate it. From the obscure Dandy in Aspic to the iconic Ipcress File Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy, sharp eyed tailoring references can be found throughout the collection to further explore Turnbull & Asser’s concept of Formalist Informalist dressing but with the introduction of eveningwear for 2015, known as The Nocturnalist

The Formalist:

The Formalist shirting has a simple fresh colour palette which disguises the complexity of the “code” in their weaving.

Smudged stripes accompany deconstructed and re-matched checks with familiar silhouettes being subtly updated.

Maintaining their colourful Jermyn Street roots, the characteristically bold colour palette has been put through a “foggy” London filter to give it an authentic Cold-War period feel for wardrobe staples such as coats and tailoring.

Taking inspiration from Turnbull & Asser’s vast archive, intricate tie weaving reflects the imperfect patterns of this period alongside contemporary geometric repeats and modern micro neat patterns whilst using captivating game playing imagery. Pocket squares have become part of an ever-unravelling puzzle, as code breaking and game playing imagery are hidden and only apparent on closer, more dangerous, inspection.

The Informalist collection encourages the opportunity to build beautiful textured layers.

Shirts explore a range of bold colours, in contemporary settings, that are softened with muted melange tones and brushed for warmth. A new line of cotton/cashmere blended yarns are included for a luxury edge to The Informalist collection presented in shirts and pyjamas.

Softly tailored blazers are invitingly tactile with tweeds and wool corduroys given a new lease of life with exclusive designs from the best British and Italian mills. Bi-colour yarns create new interest in cable sweaters with a comforting chunkiness that makes them a viable alternative to outerwear on milder autumn days.

The Nocturnalist:

Less discreet, and in a nod to the often flamboyant master criminals, Turnbull & Asser introduce an eccentric array of exquisite woven silk smoking jackets, in a seductively smoky palette of Black, Midnight and Deep Burgundy contrasted together with sharp white dress shirts. The single-breasted jackets, in shawl or peaked lapel, are all made in the London tailoring workshop and constructed in woven silk jacquard patterns.

Ranging from vintage micro repeats taken from the 50’s dress archives to the game-playing and spy motifs reflecting the season’s theme. All pieces are limited edition, adding to the air of exclusivity in the collection.

Sitting alongside the smoking jackets there is an equally intriguing selection of luxury woven silk gowns.
Available later this year

www.turnbullandasser.co.uk

Thomas Pink AW15 at London Collections:Men

On Saturday 10th January 2015, Thomas Pink, the Jermyn St shirt maker, unveiled its London inspired Autumn/Winter 15 Collection at the Institute of Contemporary Arts, as part of London Collections: Men.

Included in this season’s model line-up was former Scottish international rugby union player and Strictly Come Dancing contestant, Thom Evans.

Presented against the backdrop of a 30ft ‘long bar’ constructed entirely out of paper, each model bartender and punter showcased a different ‘Pink’ look. Built using crisp white 315gsm Kendal Manilla paper manufactured by James Cropper, the unique set up provided the perfect blank canvas for the brand’s expanding ready to wear offering.

Blurring the boundaries between tradition and technology - paper and digital - guests were invited to leave ‘off the cuff’ written reviews on the paper bar using pink pens, which could then be shared via social media.

Autumn/Winter 15 takes influence from Sir Michael Caine - one of London’s sharpest dressers in the 1960’s. The monochromic palette in shades of blue and grey celebrates his pared back style, whilst typically ‘Pink’ punctuations of mustard and raspberry can be found throughout.

Key stories in the shirting range include ‘The Davenport’, a self puppytooth and the ‘The Gibson’, a fine satin twill. This season’s hero piece is the Italian weave ‘Caldicot’ in indigo - a washed Chambray shirt in 80s two fold cotton which stylishly blurs the boundaries between formal and casual.

As the season progresses the collection references the urban metropolis that is London and celebrates its social landmarks and motifs – for example The Coach and Horses in Soho, which was frequented by Lucian Freud and legendary columnist Jeffrey Bernard. The colour palette switches up a notch with raspberry deepening to red, mustard to amber and hues of green emerging, whilst rich melange textures begin to play a key role in the range. Shirting in fine Italian fabrics include the ‘Edward’, a window pane check inspired by London’s iconic telephone boxes, ‘The Bedford’, a complex herringbone weave and the ‘Finlay’, a soft collar brushed poplin with amber overcheck.

Luxurious knitwear designed to be layered comprises the ‘Askew’ – a cashmere wool blend crew neck featuring an oversized tartan – and a selection of cable knits, v-necks and zip necks in luxurious cashmere, wool and merino wool blends in warm colours.
Separately, Autumn Winter 15 includes a cashmere rugby jersey to mark 2015s rugby event of the year - as well as a range of accessories inspired by the great British sport.

This season’s outerwear is travel focused and uses technical fabrics for maximum style and performance. The range includes an Italian made reversible jacket, a bonded wool rain coat and a deconstructed wool hopsack jacket. Autumn/Winter 15 also sees the introduction of a wool/mohair travel suit made from British fabric, which mixes high twist wool yarn with lightweight mohair fibre to create the perfect travel companion.

Traditional British outerwear includes stalwart sports jackets fashioned out of Fox flannel with foggy yellow overchecks, traditional Covert coats with contrasting collars in jewel tones and quilted jackets in collaboration with Lavenham.

As well as eveningwear, the collection incorporates a capsule party range inspired by Alfred Hitchcock’s dashing and directional sartorial style. A quirky colour palette of teal, magenta, indigo and purple compliment rich velvet accessories with silk printed peacock feathers, which sit alongside richly textured Donegal tweed and British Flannel blazers.

In shirting, spots and exaggerated Prince of Wales checks in bold saturated colours start to appear, whilst a super modern dark tartan shirt with bright highlights in an innovative ‘breathable’ fabric provides a point to the season.

Guests including myself and also the models enjoyed cocktails mixed by Pontoon, made using Hennessy Fine de Cognac and garnished with paper foxes, whilst listening to British classics from The Clash, The Rolling Stones and Pulp.

Celebrities included:

Hip hop recording artist Clement Marfo with Hugo Taylor ( of Made In Chelsea fame ) and English author Ed Smith.

And here I am cuddling up to the gorgeous Hugo Taylor!

Continuing the iconic London theme, models wore Dr. Martens tasselled loafers with one or two wearing Thomas Pink logo velvet loafers.

The AW15 collection will be available later in the year

www.thomaspink.com

The Cambridge Satchel Company introduces its first men’s collection at London Collections:Men AW15

The Cambridge Satchel Company’s Men’s AW15 collection is the first dedicated men’s range that the brand has produced.

With its classic Satchel and Batchel styles in their unisex range, the brand is branching out into developing bespoke men’s styling .

The Cartridge Collection

Inspired by the vintage cartridge bag and perfect as a camera bag.

Cartridge Medium in russet

In three sizes, the small size will protect valuables, whilst the medium and large sizes carry extra pockets for all those other essentials.

Has branded brass hardware, webbing strap as well as a top handle.

Four colours: russet, navy, black and dark brown with an extra colour, oxblood in the large size.

Small £175, medium £240 and large £250

The Map Bag

Inspired by the vintage map bag.

Large map bag in pine

Large map bag in pine

Features an interior pocket design with a detachable pouch.

Has branded press studs and detachable shoulder strap.

Three sizes available in pine, russet, black and oxblood.

Small size £125, medium £145 and large £185

The Bridge Closure

Instead of the traditional buckle this satchel has simple brass holding premium saddle leather tabs to create a smooth simple look.

In oxblood, black and navy with tan tabs and russet with dark brown tabs. Price £225

Also available in the small map bag style Price £145

The Folio Group

A reworking of the brand’s music bag and is available in three sizes: small, large and backpack.

Small Folio bag in russet

The small size has one simple handle while the large size has an additional handle and a wider fit. All three carry a webbing strap which can be detached so that each is carried by the handle in a briefcase style. Has a robust metal bar closure which carried the brand’s distinctive bike logo on each end.

Small (£150) and large (£195) sizes are available in pine, black, vintage and dark brown

Backpack (£175) is available in russet and black

Multipocket Batchel

A classic satchel with top handle.

Features magnetic side pockets, two front pockets, webbing strap for eacy cross body wearing and branded brass hardware.

Available in navy, black, oxblood and dark brown, Price £265

www.cambridgesatchel.com

7 January 2015

Ong-Oaj Paraim SS15 Menswear

For SS15, Ong-Oaj Paraim was inspired by his fragmented memories of growing up alongside his family’s Noodle factory in Nakhon Ratichasima, Thailand. Memories that Ong-Oaj pieced together with a dream like logic.

Colour palette is inspired by the vivid pinks, greens and blues of the local street food markets and pastel hues faded by the tropical sun.

With his family’s noodle factory in mind, utilitarian functional workwear is present with boiler suits and parkas in luxurious fabrics and in shades of candy pinks, blues and mint green.

Prints range from the delicate Cherry Blossom....

... to the bolder pattern featuring Chinese symbols and tropical goldfish surrounded by Baroque style frames - East meets West.

Inspired by the lucky goldfish bowl outside the family's factory, Ong-Oaj designed a tropical fish print for his leather sleeved trench coat (1st image) and full suit.(above image).

Brought up surrounded by many different oriental cultures and traditions, Japanese and Chinese influence can be seen in the collection. Above print features rows of Samurai warriors in silhouette softened by pastel hues. Sandals and mocassins also have a touch of Japanese inspiration with hand painted designs and Samurai style stitching.

Contact Ong-Oaj directly for a made to measure piece.

Email: info@ong-oajparaim.com

Tel: 07584 195 453

www.ong-oajparaim.com

5 January 2015

Limited Edition tee! Intergalatic Fierce

Great for all you Sci-Fi fans – the Intergalatic tee #Fierce!

Adorned with an imposing Cylon, the #Fierce tee is a reminder to all that this wearer will pursue his or her goals to the farthest edges of the universe…and tweet about it every step of the way.

http://teespring.com/Intergalactic

Only available until 23rd Jan