12 December 2010

Black Tie Event - The Dress Shirt

Always choose white and buy an actual dress shirt, a normal shirt will not do.
M&S PR Shots
The better made formal shirts will have a bib front i.e. a double layer of fabric at the front where it is exposed by the jacket and ending just above the waist. The bib can be plain, pleated or in the traditional Marcella pique pattern.
Wearing studs instead of the top 2/3 buttons of the shirt is traditional and good quality dress shirts will have eyelets to accommodate them. However if the buttons are pearl then this is also acceptable.
Simon Carter jet dress studs
. Simon Carter has a set of 5 clear or jet studs you can add to your shirt.-  http://www.simoncarter.net

What style of collar?
Before WWII, stiff shirts with winged detachable collars were common, but now the modern dress shirt for black tie events is softer with a classic turn down collar and French cuffs. Although in the US they favour the semi-stiff shirt with an attached wing collar, in the UK a wing collar is usually for white tie events only.
Collar styles for black ties are the spread (more formal) and the semi–spread, because both suit a bow tie. 
Spread (wider distance between the collar points.). The spread collar suits slim men or men with long thin faces as the horizontal line of the spread balances out the vertical line of the face.
Udeshi extreme cutaway collar
Udeshi extreme cutaway is their signature collar style and sweeps back as far as possible without it disappearing altogether. Price at time of print is £185-  http://www.udeshi.co.uk
Eton dress shirt
The more rounded face should go for the semi spread as the horizontal line of the collar is not as prominent. If you have a very round or wide face go for the longest collar tips you can find on a semi spread collar as these create vertical lines which will balance more with your face.  Eton shirts have moderate cutaway and classic point collars with longer collar points. Price at time of print £110-£130

Cufflinks should be monochrome and if wearing dress studs should either match or harmonise with them. 

Angelo Galasso cufflinks
 Go for stylish mother of pearl such as these Angell Galasso silver cufflinks (stockists: 8-10 hans Rd, London SW3 1RX 0207 584 3978) or ...
Simon Carter cufflinks
....these understated onyx bars from Simon Carter.

Article seen in Eclipse Magazine 

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