In a quality suit the jacket needs to drape well and in order for it to drape well you need to consider the skeleton of the jacket i.e.:
The Canvas
Ideally the canvas of the suit should be hand basted rather than fused i.e. the layers of the suit are stitched together rather than glued together. Fused canvases will not move as freely or drape as well so may bubble and pucker over time. Canvases which are hand stitched to the wool shell will move with the rest of the suit.
A hand basted full canvas front will work out more expensive , so to make it cheaper you could opt for either a half canvas front or a floating canvas chest piece.
A half canvas front – the canvas is only half fused and only at the lower part where it doesn’t really touch the body. The top half is stitched so the jacket can mould itself better to the shape of the user. There is also padding sewn in to the lapel where it rolls to give it soft support which lasts longer than a fused suit where it can become flat quicker.
J by Jasper Conran at Debenhams |
A floating canvas chest piece – here some glue is used in the top part of the suit but is not completely stuck to the front of the suit as in a fully fused suit.
T.M.Lewin's Red Label range |
Trousers come unhemmed so the right length can be specified and carried out for free.
All prices correct at time of publication.
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