18 October 2014

Maharishi AW14 Skeuo Mimicry R.I.P.‏

For AW14 maharishi celebrates the 20th anniversary of its inception, and explores the theme 'Skeuo mimicry RIP'; camouflage and mimicry in the natural and digital worlds.

The title refers to the declining use of skeuo morphism, a design practice in which new technologies visually mimic their physical world versions. As we grow more accustomed to a life integrated with digital technology, these comparisons become less relevant, and new modes are adopted. When Apple launched iOS7, they abandoned most skeuo morphs.

The season’s embellishments are inspired by the camouflage systems perfected by nature such as the striped markings of tigers and the rosette patterns on leopards. These appear in disrupted and abstracted forms, infiltrated with pixellation.

 Upcycling, a vital component of every maharishi collection of the last 20 years, again takes centre stage in AW14 with Polish, Czech, Serbian and US military materials and garments being reworked and reshaped. As with all pieces from maharishi's recycled program, the source garments are ceremonially blessed, washed in saffron water and smudged with incense, symbolically disassociating each piece from its negative military past before being repurposed. By these processes, they are given a new and extended life,more positive purpose and a reduced environmental cost.

 In keeping with maharishi's ethos of respecting nature whilst utilising technology, external seam sealing features heavily, often on waterproof Sympatex fabrics and seam-sealed membrane jackets. This season maharishi again partners with renowned Swiss textile mill Schoeller in delivering organic cottons with performance qualities. These feature advanced moisture management combining two technologies in one textile: the external side being finished with a water repellent (hydrophobic) surface, whilst its internal(hydrophilic) side readily absorbs perspiration.

This year Maharishi commemorate the 70th anniversary of the iconic US airforce MA1 jacket. A capsule collection has been created in homage to this design classic,a perennial favourite in both military and civilian circles. As well as a maharishi version of the jacket, the capsule features trousers, tees, sweats and bags that utilise characteristic MA1 elements like orange Hi-Vis interiors, rib collars and its distinctive sleeve pocket.

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