7 June 2013

Gentlemen's Dress Code for the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot Races

The gentleman’s dress code for the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot has always been strict, but since last year they are making sure that these rules are DEFINITLEY NOT broken.
 Rule no 1: Morning suits
Gentlemen are kindly reminded that it is a requirement to wear black or grey morning dress.
No other colour is acceptable in the Royal Enclosure.

If wearing a black morning coat the trousers must be either grey or black in striped or houndstooth pattern.
If wearing a grey morning coat, the trousers should match the coat in colour and fabric like a suit.
Black is the most popular at Royal Ascot and is striking next to a pristine white shirt. 
The above image shows a black morning coat from Oliver Brown Price £475
Fabric: 100% British barathea wool in plain black with peak lapel, 3 button cuffs, fully lined with ticket pocket and inside pockets.  
 http://www.oliverbrown.org.uk/buy/morning-wear-collection/black-morning-coat.html  
Teamed with houndstooth trousers in 100% British wool. Price £165 Half lined; single pleated, side adjusters, brace buttons, slant pockets and two hip pockets.  

To save money you could go buy one of their ex rental morning coats at £295

The grey is a more flattering choice for those of you with a fair or soft colouring. Through Moss Bros you can hire the grey Ted Baker morning coat with its striking peacock lining.
 They offer three hire packages jacket and trousers only at £120; plus waistcoat £130; and plus white shirt, tie and pocket square for £155. There is a choice of 6 colour ways for the silk tie and pocket square and they are yours to keep as a gift from Ted Baker!  The shirt for hire is white with a cutaway collar and double cuffs.
For Accidental Damage Waiver there is an extra charge of £8.

Moss Bros also has the Royal Ascot Collection especially designed for the occasion. http://www.moss.co.uk/pws/hire/ascot/ascot_collection.html

Morning coat: Pure new wool and light in weight so if the day turns out to be a scorcher then you’ll stay cool, but if it’s a cooler day then it’ll keep you warm. The coat has a royal-blue satin lining and the distinctive Royal Ascot emblem embroidered on the inside pocket.  Also has the traditional single link button.
Waistcoat: single breasted in traditional colour of dove grey or buff with 5 buttons
Trousers: Traditional wool-blend single pleat grey stripe trousers
Here worn with black oxford shoes from M&S and top hat from Hetherington Hats.

Rule no 2: Waistcoats.
A waistcoat must be worn.
Sartorial note: keep the bottom button undone.
Cut: Either single breasted with or without lapels or double breasted. 
Fabrics:  choose plain wool or linen.  Although silk or satin are acceptable, the shiny fabric can look more like wedding attire.


Colours: Whether light or deep, choose a muted version. Keep the bright colours and patterns for weddings. Buff and grey is the most popular colour, so for more of an individual look choose another pastel shade
Oliver Brown has both wool and linen, double and single breasted. Wool price is £145 with a colour choice of grey, buff, cream and yellow   Linen price is £135 with a colour choice of pale yellow, beige, bright yellow and pale blue.


Rule no 3: Tie.
Wear a tightly knotted tie such as a half Windsor knot. Definitely NO cravats.
And don’t be fooled with the Ascot tie.  Although named after the racecourse this is no longer acceptable so keep for wedding attire only.
Fabric: Preferably silk
Colour: Any colour and pattern you wish.

Although the Jaeger paisley tie is a classic print, the swirling pattern and various shades of blue still makes a statement.  Price £55


 Go floral with this vintage inspired print. Price £55.
The soft colour way of lilac with touches of pink will especially complement the grey morning coat.
The bolder colour way of red on a navy background (only available in stores) would suit the black morning coat.



Rule no 4: Top Hat.
A Top Hat in black or grey must be worn at all times with the exception of:
The restaurant, a private box or a private club. You can also remove your hat within any enclosed external seating area within the Royal Enclosure Garden.
But if in doubt, keep it on unless you see the vast majority taking theirs off.
NEVER customise your top hat (with, for example, coloured ribbons or bands).


A black Top Hat made of silk is the most coveted but alas no longer manufactured, making them a rarity. But you can purchase one from Oliver Brown for £500







The felt Top hats are less expensive. Go for grey felt  Top hat finished with black band in Melton wool and lined in white satin. Price £250












Top hats are expensive to buy so for the cheaper option Oliver Brown offers ex rental black felt Top hats at £150 to buy and also has a wide range of top hat for hire from £50.



 Rule no 5: Black Shoes
Shoes must be black with laces, plain and highly polished (although not patent)
The plain Oxford shoe is the perfect choice.  The Herring Knightsbridge is a classic toecap oxford shoe.  Made from calf leather for the upper, full leather lining, leather insoles and Goodyear Welted soles.  Handmade in Northamptonshire at the Loake factory for Herring Shoes
Available for £185 online at


Sartorial Rules:
Socks: no coloured socks just plain black or grey.
Shirts:  Shirts should be in keeping with a formal dress code so choose either white or a pale pastel. 
A double cuff is more in keeping with the morning suit.  Plus you can add a touch of individuality with a pair of cufflinks




Keep the Ascot theme with these Deakin & Francis silver top hats £245.00



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14 June 2011

Accessories for your Royal Ascot Morning Attire

Last but not least for your Royal Ascot morning attire is the accessories - so why not complete your look with gloves and a cane or umbrella?
Umbrella: Ede and Ravenscroft have a Whangee solid stick black umbrella with a natural cane handle. Available on their website shop www.edeandravenscroft.co.uk at £250.

Oliver Brown cane

Cane: Oliver Brown has a silver plated cap stick. The handle is a mushroom shaped design whilst the shaft is hardwood painted black and fitted with a neat metal ferrule. Overall height is 92cm. Available online www.oliverbrown.org.uk  for £50

Chester Jeffries Oxford glove
Gloves should be soft suede or kid leather and the colour- white, pale yellow, buff or grey.
For semi bespoke gloves check out  www.chesterjeffries.co.uk
First you choose the glove style. Chester Jeffries recommends their Oxford for Ascot - see above image for style but don't go for brown, go for the lighter colours..  Made from soft Capeskin (kid) leather, this style of glove is widely used in films and stage such as Poirot. Priced at £41 unlined.
Second stage - choose the colour. For Ascot go for: white, pearl, ivory, parchment, sunshine, belvedere or frigate grey.
Third stage- choose the lining.  Go for silk at an additional £7
Fourth stage – you can measure your hands or just ask for small, medium, large or extra large.

That is the last of the Royal Ascot Attire blogs, Hope they helped.
All there is for you to do now is enjoy the day and make sure your morning attire is a safe bet.
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13 June 2011

The Bottom Line for Royal Ascot Morning Attire- trousers and footwear


You're looking dapper on top with your morning coat and wasitcoat, now to tackle the bottom part:
Trousers:
Always wear traditional morning trousers with a single pleat and brace buttons.
Don't think any old dress trousers will do. 
Royal Enclosure Rule not to be broken:
If wearing a black morning coat the trousers must be either striped or hounds tooth.
Oliver Brown houndstooth

The houndstooth is very popular and is single pleated with a buckle, strap adjusters and internal brace buttons.  These Oliver Brown trousers are traditional cut using pure wool worsted houndstooth and priced at £135 available online www.oliverbrown.org.uk 
Oliver Brown striped morning trousers
Also in the traditional stripe in 100% wool, half lined, zip fly and side adjusters. Price again £135

Oliver Brown grey morning suit
If wearing a grey morning coat, the trousers should match the coat in colour and fabric like a suit. Above is an
Oliver Brown  morning suit:
Morning coat: 100% wool in grey £475
Trousers: matching £135


Shoes and Socks:
Royal Enclosure Rule not to be broken:
Shoes must be black with laces, plain and highly polished (although not patent)
Best going for the plain Oxford shoe. 

Herrings Knightsbridge Oxfords
Herring Shoes, one of the sponsors for the Leech racing in Devon suggest their black hi-shine oxford shoe the Knightsbridge which is part of their Classic collection.  Made from calf leather for the upper, full leather lining, leather insoles and Goodyear welted soles.  Handmade in Northamptonshire at the Loake factory for Herring Shoes
Available for £155 online at www.herringshoes.co.uk  

Socks: no coloured socks just plain black or grey.

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11 June 2011

What Shirt to Wear with your Royal Ascot Morning Suit.



Royal Enclosure Rule not to be broken: Your shirt must be double cuff

However you no longer have to stick to a plain white shirt to wear with your morning coat. You can now show your true colours as long as they are pale or soft hues – no garish brights please. 
  
Ede and Ravenscroft
A stripe with white collar and cuffs is a good alternative.

Oliver Brown tunic shirts

Or go down the traditional route with a white detachable stiff collar and tunic shirt. Oliver Brown has a choice of white, yellow or blue collarless shirts online www.oliverbrown.org.uk  for £59 and a choice of stiff collars for £15.

Tie:
Royal Enclosure Rule not to be broken: no cravats or an ascot. (Keep these for weddings only)
Wear a tightly knotted tie and preferably in silk.
Here you can choose any colour.
Charles Tyrwhitt self stripe silk tie
 Charles Tyrwhitt has a selection of silk ties, plain and patterned. Above is the self stripe woven tie in 100% silk. Normal price is £50 but at the moment they have a promotional price of £24.95. If purple is not your colour, also comes in yellow, charcoal grey, Royal blue and red, www.ctshirts.co.uk


Handkerchief
Royal Enclosure Rule not to be broken: Has to be silk and neatly folded.
Cotton or any other fabric besides silk is a no no.
 And the silk handkerchief has to be neatly folded not flamboyantly pushed in to the pocket.

Above are silk handkerchiefs from  www.davidedward.co.uk in pink, grey or blue. They feature 4 different shades of the same colour and have hand rolled edgings. Price £12


Tip:
Don't wear the same colour for your tie and handkerchief as you'll look as though you're going to a wedding rather than looking dapper for Royal Ascot. They don't need to match, just complement each other.

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8 June 2011

Top Hats for Royal Ascot

It’s surprising to know that Top Hats got off to a shaky start when the hat maker John Heatherington wore the first one to be seen in public on the streets of London in Jan 1797. At the sight of this unusually tall hat, women screamed and fainted, children cried, so the poor man was arrested and fined for ‘frightening timid people’.
Proving it had stamina; the top hat ran the distance and secured its place in high fashion when Prince Albert started wearing one in 1850.
But what about the fainting women? Well we are more apt to swoon at the sight of the hat now.
Originally made out of fur felt (beaver being the most expensive); silk became to gain the lead in the fashionable stakes. Silk is still out there in front but no longer manufactured, making them a rarity and most coveted.  
Royal Enclosure Rule not to be broken
A top hat must be worn at all times within the Royal Enclosure area except for:  the restaurant, a private box or a private club. You can also remove your hat within any enclosed external seating area within the Royal Enclosure Garden. If in doubt, keep it on unless you see the vast majority taking theirs off.
Black or grey top hats are acceptable for black morning coats, but grey top hats partner well with grey morning suits.
Oliver Brown’s website www.oliverbrowntophats.com states: “has been selling Top Hats for over 30 years and is the oldest independent silk top hat dealer in London. We are the official and only silk top hat dealer with a trade stand as part of the Royal Ascot shop on the course during the Royal meeting.”

Oliver Brown vintage silk top hat
Their vintage silk top hats start from £500

Whilst their new top hats include:

Oliver Brown - Royal Ascot Tall topper
Royal Ascot Tall topper – standing tall above the rest in this highly polished, black 6 ¼ inch high top hat. £450
Oliver Brown - grey top hat

Or go for the more popular 5 ½ inches black or grey top hats, felt finished and priced £250
Oliver Brown also stocks top hat boxes to keep your top hat safe. Vintage boxes start from £750 whilst new at £450.


Savvy Row of www.savvyrow.co.uk stock vintage British classic garments and at the moment has two top hats on sale.
Savvy Row- Christy's top hat

One is a brand new Christy’s black wool top hat with 5 ¼” crown and black morning band for £79.
The other is an antique genuine silk top hat priced at £125
You’d be ‘mad as a hatter’ to miss out on these two.

Speaking of ‘Mad as a Hatter’ – the phrase is said to originate from those unfortunate hat makers in the 1800’s who used a mercury compound in the process of turning fur into felt.  The workshops were usually poorly ventilated and so the fumes were breathed in causing mercury poisoning which resulted in slurred speech, trembling, loss of memory, depression, anxiety and loss of co-ordination.

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