reporting on men's fashion and grooming
13 January 2018
Ben Sherman AW18 at London Fashion Week Men's
Titled 'Heart of Soul' Ben Sherman explores industrious British Northern towns in the 1970s at a time when living for the weekend was truly a way of life.
Inspiration comes from Northern Soul, an iconic subculture where 'Night Owls' would dance until daylight in clubs to the imported soul 45's.
The collection reinterprets the parquet floor patterns with autumnal colours and modern yarn.
Night Owls are celebrated through retro badges and patches , wool shirts with soul pins and quirky'night' owl prints on knitted sweaters and sweatshirts.
Video of grand finale
Wood Wood AW18 at London Fashion Week Men's
Entitled ‘Before and After’, the Wood Wood Autumn/Winter 2018 collection fuses the contemporary streetwear of Wood Wood with elements of Americana.
Classic American wardrobe stables are updated in look and feel, while the transition from childhood to adulthood works as the thematic framework for the collection.
The transition into adulthood is the main inspiration for the collection and several print stories speak to the theme of growing up and learning to stand on one’s own feet. ‘Leave Me Alone With Your Attention’, ‘Fan Club’ and ‘Sad Songs Make Me Happy’ all deal with this turbulent period in life where emotions run high and can be difficult to comprehend.
The ‘Before and After’ stories in the collection are mixed with traditional American elements such as a patchwork story, a collegiate story, an army surplus story and a raw denim story.
These elements are all part of traditional American youth culture and in the WWAW18 collection they are tweaked and reworked to complement the contemporary streetwear aesthetics of Wood Wood. Key items in the collection include classic woollen coats with detachable nylon hoods and updated puffer jackets with Primaloft insulation.
After having collaborated with the best brands in the sneaker industry and in line with the collegiate theme of the collection, the WWAW18 collection additionally introduces a unisex sneaker inspired by classic 80s runners in four different iterations
The colour palette of the collection is centred around muted tones with pops of bright red and bright blue.
In consonance with the focal points of the collection, main materials include corduroy, raw denim, army twill, heavy wool, delicate silk and melange knit alongside more technical garments incorporating Primaloft insulation.
Classic American wardrobe stables are updated in look and feel, while the transition from childhood to adulthood works as the thematic framework for the collection.
The transition into adulthood is the main inspiration for the collection and several print stories speak to the theme of growing up and learning to stand on one’s own feet. ‘Leave Me Alone With Your Attention’, ‘Fan Club’ and ‘Sad Songs Make Me Happy’ all deal with this turbulent period in life where emotions run high and can be difficult to comprehend.
The ‘Before and After’ stories in the collection are mixed with traditional American elements such as a patchwork story, a collegiate story, an army surplus story and a raw denim story.
These elements are all part of traditional American youth culture and in the WWAW18 collection they are tweaked and reworked to complement the contemporary streetwear aesthetics of Wood Wood. Key items in the collection include classic woollen coats with detachable nylon hoods and updated puffer jackets with Primaloft insulation.
After having collaborated with the best brands in the sneaker industry and in line with the collegiate theme of the collection, the WWAW18 collection additionally introduces a unisex sneaker inspired by classic 80s runners in four different iterations
The colour palette of the collection is centred around muted tones with pops of bright red and bright blue.
In consonance with the focal points of the collection, main materials include corduroy, raw denim, army twill, heavy wool, delicate silk and melange knit alongside more technical garments incorporating Primaloft insulation.
10 January 2018
Chin Menswear AW18 Menswear at London Fashion Week Men's
The collection returns to the designer's Taiwanese roots to explore his own peculiar universe.
A Universe that acknowledges a generation living in a time of great social and cultural collision.
Chin's vision is a melting pot of cultures incorporating elements of traditional Chinese culture, Taiwanese indigenous lore, Japonism and new Western values.
Taiwanese formosan patterns are woven into colourful sweaters.
Multi layered silhouettes are inspired by 1990's Japanese television.
Contrasting textures are used - corduroy, denim, fluffy knitwear, silky satin and silver hook & eye embroidery.
Garments have been tweaked to achieve unbalanced proportions complementing Chin's signature oversized silhouettes.
Photography by Leon Mark
Model - Zakarie from Nisch Management
A Universe that acknowledges a generation living in a time of great social and cultural collision.
Chin's vision is a melting pot of cultures incorporating elements of traditional Chinese culture, Taiwanese indigenous lore, Japonism and new Western values.
Taiwanese formosan patterns are woven into colourful sweaters.
Multi layered silhouettes are inspired by 1990's Japanese television.
Contrasting textures are used - corduroy, denim, fluffy knitwear, silky satin and silver hook & eye embroidery.
Garments have been tweaked to achieve unbalanced proportions complementing Chin's signature oversized silhouettes.
Photography by Leon Mark
Model - Zakarie from Nisch Management
John Lawrence Sullivan AW18 at London Fashion Week Men's
For Autumn Winter 2018, JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN looks at the concept of “psychopath”
“psycho killer”.
The theme takes inspiration from the mood and tones of films such as Twin Peaks and Taxi Driver, in which a natural born killer has multiple personalities. A psychopath and a wired character - this incompatibility is reflected throughout the collection especially the jeans with a different colour/fabric on each leg.
The AW18 collection employs a mixture of tailoring and cowboy elements.
Western components are portrayed through accessories such as belts and new cowboy boots adapted with a vibram tracking sole.
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN reinforces these elements through core accessories such as wired gloves and psychopath shape glasses
alongside the use of materials such as; wool, velvet, corduroy, leather and patent.
Throughout the collection the words “dexter” and “sinister” regularly appear, representing left and right, the ominous and auspicious dual-sided personality, which embody the theme of the psycho killer for AW18.
Photographs by Everynight www.everynight.co.uk Nick Andrews
Video of the finale
The theme takes inspiration from the mood and tones of films such as Twin Peaks and Taxi Driver, in which a natural born killer has multiple personalities. A psychopath and a wired character - this incompatibility is reflected throughout the collection especially the jeans with a different colour/fabric on each leg.
The AW18 collection employs a mixture of tailoring and cowboy elements.
Western components are portrayed through accessories such as belts and new cowboy boots adapted with a vibram tracking sole.
JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN reinforces these elements through core accessories such as wired gloves and psychopath shape glasses
alongside the use of materials such as; wool, velvet, corduroy, leather and patent.
Throughout the collection the words “dexter” and “sinister” regularly appear, representing left and right, the ominous and auspicious dual-sided personality, which embody the theme of the psycho killer for AW18.
Photographs by Everynight www.everynight.co.uk Nick Andrews
Video of the finale
9 January 2018
Tonsure AW17 Collection at London Fashion Week Mens
Designer Malte Flagstad draws inspiration from 1980's New York and focuses on fabrics and textures associated from jersey, wool and leather.
Supported by The Woolmark Company. the collection is predominantly made from Merino wool.
The wool fabric is constructed to resemble various shades of classic grey melange jersey and a classic wool motif such as herringbone is given the appearance of melange jersey in collaboration with Lanifico Subalpino.
Wardrobe staples such as shirts and t-shirts are made have knitted wool panels.
An exclusive nylon print was developed with Limonta which features the classic Prince of Wales check that has been highlighted to become a new check pattern resembling wool.
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