Sneak Peek at J Shoes AW 13 Collection

A staple favourite with British shoe designers, Dainite has been a market leader in shoe sole production since 1894 with their studded rubber soles.

For AW13, J Shoes has incorporated the studded rubber sole into their latest collection.

 Known for its durability and quality, the rubber soles are ideal for the winter months providing comfort and grip in all conditions, whilst not attracting or storing dirt.

The Dainite Studded sole manages to be practical whilst maintaining a smart timeless styling.

Available soon from
www.jshoesonline.co.uk

Hentsch Man AW13

Monochrome double breasted jackets in traditional dogtooth and herringbone are given street cred teamed with black & white geometric printed sweaters and tees, plus a few tattoos (models own).

 Pushing prints further with single colour geometric prints and monochrome block patterns designed exclusively in house. Coordinating shirt and tie combinations, printed pocket squares and printed t-shirts. 

However it isn’t all black and white as burgundy injects some colour to the more casual clothes.

www.hentschman.com

For stockist info go to:

http://www.hentschman.com/info/stockists

Orlebar Brown AW13 Collection - Miami

This may be an AW season, but this collection is definitely more for a warm and sunny Miami AW climate.

Miami Nights

Taking inspiration from glamorous 50’s beach and night life, the bulldog shorts, tees, short sleeved shirts and jacket linings sport specially commissioned Miami illustrations as prints. 

 

You can see the print on the below white t-shirt is the same as the Ocean Drive print in the background. The lining of the jacket is the boat print.

 Also images from the archives of Hulton Getty were used for the bulldog shorts:

Poolside Decadence

Beach Frivolity

 A great capsule wardrobe for a winter beach holiday.  

Poolside Decadence

Soon to be available from 

www.orlebarbrown.co.uk

A La Disposition AW13 - Black Snow

This season showed the debut of menswear standing alone from the London Fashion Week women’s show plus a separate inspiration.

That inspiration came partly from the graphic novel of Black Snow, an unsuccessful alcoholic wannabe superhero who can’t control his powers, and partly from Prague and Hermetic Mysticism. 

Traditional fabric used are English woolens with silk and adding a twist was the quilted padded nylon used for  super wide trousers and .....

.

.....jagged peaked superhero styled helmets plus the acrylic wire embedded into the techno fabric to keep the shape of the wide culottes

The colour palette is heavy on greys and blacks with splashes of red and white.

Selection of the debut menswear collection is available from

The Seven Dials Presents

35 Neal Street

London WC2H 9PR

Euphorik AW13 Collection

Although this collection was inspired by medieval knights and kings, there is no sign of long sweeping cloaks or suits of armour and chain mail. This is a modern take on how clothes have become our everyday armour.

Photographer Sam Atkinson

The pieces range from the short silk velvet dinner jacket in red named the king’s robe,

Photographer Sam Atkinson

...... to the simpler light grey suiting adorned with a hood.

Other pieces include the liquid silver Lurex silk t-shirt named chain mail (also worn in the first image with the red velvet jacket) .....

.....and a metallic grey tailored suit with suede lapels and shoulders called steel armour suit.

Mohair coat for the Good Knight.

Soon to be available through

Wolf & Badger Mayfair

32 Dover street

London W1S 4NE

https://www.wolfandbadger.com/shop/designers/euphorik-london/

 

Jenny Schwarz AW13 Collection - Jesse

Titled ‘Jesse’ after Jesse James.

 Like Jesse, the poor horsemen and farmers of the 1880s were quite well dressed.

 Not because they had an eye for quality but because the rich would discard their out of season garments, selling them at very low prices.

 Luxury cashmere sweaters are in the style of granddad t-shirts, 

everyday jackets are of silk taffeta,

 and soft leather trims pocket slits and underneath pocket flaps. 

And for that quick escape on horseback, long coats and jackets sport high back vents

Available soon from

http://www.thenandnowshop.com/shop/jenny+schwarz?

For other stockists see:

http://www.jennyschwarz.com/stockists/

Orschel Read AW13 - Bill Nighy

This collection was inspired by the golden era of Pirate Radio and the film The Boat That Rocked.

 The title and also the muse for the collection is Bill Nighy (after the British actor) with looks influenced by the late 60s and early 70s British Rock ‘n’ Roll.

 This is sartorial tailoring in bold colours and patterns:

 Peak Label suit worn by Leo (Lyonard, )the textile & knitwear designer for the collection– a two button slim fit suit jacket of gold paisley on navy corduroy. Teamed with chunky polo neck sweater.

Leo designed the red zig zag pattern panels on the above electric blue suit.....

.... and the 100% cashmere twin set called James II (the cardigan) and Duke of Rothesay (sleeveless roll neck jumper).  The pattern is mimicking the radio wave frequencies and described as white noise.

This white noise pattern is used throughout the collection . Here Stefan, the designer himself wears a loose linked one button single breasted suit

One statement piece is the Kavanagh, a double breasted trench coat in monochrome zigzag melton.

Soon to be available through:

http://www.thenandnowshop.com/orschel-read/b26012/

 

Aitor Throup AW13 Collection _ New Object Research

As though walking in to a faded black and white war movie, the colour palette for the whole AW13 presentation was in grainy monochrome.  The presentation consisted of multiple suspended life-size human sculptures each wearing four complete outfits from the twenty piece collection. The collection was made of four themes:

Mongolia - a study of Mongolian culture, history, geography , tradition and lifestyle - analysed with the aim to suggest a new national costume based on a modern analysis of needs. The equine sculpture highlights the relationship with their horses.

When Football Hooligans become Hindu Gods - a story of redemption .

Looking closely the collection was actually wearable ranging from the casual parka.....

.... to a more tailored herringbone coat with hood and adorned with zips.   

On the Ethics of  Ethnic Stereotyping - The large leather rucksack is in the guise of an upside down human skull. Perfectly functional as a multi-compartmental accessory, the skull acts as a symbol of misconstued threat. The skull is widely used to symbolise death and terror, The bag also conveys the same message but only when looked at in the wrong way.

The Funeral of New Orleans (Part One) - Each garment is cut on a life-size thermo-active cotton mesh sculpture of the human body in the precise pose needed to play each instrument, creating ergonomically different versions of the same outfit.

Alex Mattsson AW13 Collection

Alex Mattson’s AW13 collection takes inspiration from 1940’s Americana and the large scale latin immigration to California of the era. Blending Latin American cultures of today and the past.

 The collection references Zoot suits (right on the below image shows a high waisted chalk stripe Zoot suit), 40’s workwear and South American inspired denim mixes.

40s style baggy dungarees mixed effortlessly with modern day biker jackets...

... ,stud trimmed hoodie and baggy denim shorts. 

Flashes of white lighten this mainly all black and navy collection. White stitching on a black biker jacket gives a futuristic Tron like glow.......

.... whilst the white spanner silhouettes on the black socks showed a fun and softer side to the tattooed gang of models

 

His collections always  takes inspiration from sub-cultures in particular with Biker Gang culture. This season he singles out ‘The Mongols’ – a notorious biker club.

UK Stockist

Machine A

13 Brewer Street

Soho London W1f 0RH

 www.machine-a.com coming soon

US stockist

Joyrich

7700 Melrose Ave

Los Angeles CA90046

www.joyrich.com

Others check out:

http://www.alexmattsson.com/313133/stockists