JAMES HILLMAN AW11 Collection at London Fashion Week

Fashion Mode mentors new designers each a year and helps them launch themselves on to the catwalk. This year one of the three lucky designers was:

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JAMES HILLMAN
Hillman’s inspiration was crude oil and the importance it has in our society.

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The colour palette was different shades of black reflecting the natural colour of crude oil.

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whilst the models wore their hair slicked back, nails painted black and super shiny shoes

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Exposed fly zips lay diagonally and

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...shoulders were slightly swept up...,

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and cuffs turned up.Shirt collars varied from the minimilistic band collar to the more flamboyant double button high necked collar

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Fabrics had sheen like the oil in ripstop and

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...lightweight wax cottons on shirts

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and the heavier cashmere mixes and

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....reindeer leather for jackets and coats.

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Lapels on jackets were either slim or

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nonexistent giving a clean minimalistic look,

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whilst the mixing of fabrics gave a flow of depth and shades.

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Due to the lack of colour, this collection concentrated on the satorial tailoring details
Images by photographer Chris Dadey

ASGER JUEL LARSEN AW11 Collection at London Fashion Week

The theme was gothically dark although the looks changed dramatically.

Opening to the sound of horses hooves the model walked on in a Victorian funeral director style long black coat and top hat embellished with crosses. 

The next model followed dressed in a black leather biker jacket with knee high buckled boots.

Inspired by historic events ,the show crossed over the pond to the US with a black leather US cavalry look.

And a black US civil war look.

The Native American appeared, again in black, with black Mohican style feathered headdress, pants with wide open laced up sides and a large metallic warrior necklace cum breastplate. 

Before going back to the civil war this time in shades grey - maybe representing the other side.

The top hat reappeared adorned with long leather ribbons and trousers at half mast

The show lightened up with a monochrome Uncle Sam in black and white embellished with metal spikes. Footwear added a touch of colour in the original red, white and blue stars and stripes.

The next Uncle Sam was hanging on by a thread (or threads). 

 At the end reverting back to the gothic look with fake bones /teeth hanging from a fish net veil

and  a sweeping black cloak and top hat as the finale piece..  

MR LIPOP AW11 collection at London Fashion Week

Titled 'From London to Tokyo via the Old Crow'

What better way to start an expedition than that with a fur trimmed leather hood attached to your leather back pack, and a warm chunky cable knit sweater? Knee length shorts were frayed as though they started as full length trousers at the beginning of the journey, but as the weather changed the trousers had to go....

...or completely replaced with the more laid back cropped jogging pants.

The tailored pieces were minimilistic and relaxed with collarlessjackets and loafers.

or a suit of matching shirt and shorts in soft brown suede

and here less is definitley more.

The colour pallette included burgundy and navy.

The beret made an appearance.

and the black leather coat and high black polo neck gave off French Resistance vibes.

 Parka style coats came in wool and sheer fabrics. 

For the colder climate was the roomy fur trimmed hooded coat

and preparing to fly in the oversized aviator style shearling jacket.

Pockets galore with A HALLUCINATION AW11 Collection at London Fashion Week

This collection was a sharp contemporary take on the British dandy...

....with urban city wear influences.style

A mix of the smart city tailored look....,

... to the smart casual.

Jackets and coats had large patch pockets...

...and sleeves in a contrasting colour...

... or as seen here with contrasting yolk and hood.

Slouchy knitwear also came with contrasting coloured  patch pockets, seen here in blue and brown and with contrasting cuffs..

... and here in tones of blue with contrasting sleeves.

The military look crept in with epaulettes on knitwear ...

... and shirts

Some jackets sported a double row of patch pockets. Lots of room to keep your essentials.

But not to be left out, shirts also sported the double row pockets giving a utilitarian look

Colour palette was dark with olive, burgundy, blues and browns.

CAMILLA BRUERBERG AW11 Colelction at London Fashion Week

The inspiration for this collcetion was evolution and traditional craft.

Focusing on a combination of knits and chiffons ...

....and digital prints

Here seen as a bomber jacket with digital printed denim patches.

Here loose baggy knits were mixed with chiffon panels, jogging style trousers with diaphanous side panels.

Lots of layering for the boho traditional craft look...

... plus different coloured yarn and loose looped stitching mixed  with chiffon for the 'here's one we made earlier' craft look.

The knitwear ranged from chunky 

to fine

But all were baggy and relaxed

Moving away from the knits, chiffon gave a more structured look in panelled tops...

... and over digital prints.

The collection had a laid back feel, although there was one cuckoo in the nest in the disguise of the bomber jacket, looking more bovver than boho - but maybe that was the evolution part of the inspiration?

Last but not least was the footwear. Loved them and want a pair myself -basically long socks covered in a digital printed shoe pattern.