An aquiline silhoutter is displayed in supple rubber, nubby shearling and coated cotton jersey; robust textiles devised to cover and protect.
Research focused on the sculptural quality of religious habits and life-jackets & uniforms worn by the British army during WW11.
The performance sculptures by influential German artist Franx Erhard Walther are also a key reference. He created a unique series of installations titled 'walformations' using sheets of canvas and basic clothing patterns. His largest piece from the series was shown at Art Basel 2015. Encouraged by its dramatic scale, economic use of colour (a luminous yellow) and minimalist rigour, Berthold AW16 shows how clothing can encase the body in an uncomplicated free way.
The collection evokes the tension between covering and smothering; jacket sleeves grow from a vast hand knitted blanket wrapped around the body,
Smart coats and neat shirts have half bib fronts,
Roomy crew neck smocks are in smooth rubber or bushy shearling.
Neat bomber jackets are lined in cotton jersey making them soft yet hardy.