20 January 2016

Dunhill AW16 menswear

This season dunhill presents the finest traditions of English gentlemanly dressing, a complete wardrobe update to accommodate contemporary demands:
Smoking jackets are crafted in velvet whose pile is specially hand cut by one of the last masters of the craft in Japan; the process is time consuming but creates a more dense even nap on the cloth.

Colours include rich inky midnight blue and smoky faded salmon. Black barathea trousers have  a more generous width of grosgrain in the side seam, Black pumps are finished with a hand tied bow.

The blazer, a dunhill signature. The new silhouette offering for blazers is broadened with cross generational fits that include both a classically structured shoulder, a rounded more English style shoulder and a lastly a completely unstructured relaxed shoulder for a less formal occasion.

 Recreated in an array of rich fabrications including the finest airbrushed double faced cashmere, doing away with the need for linings.

Whilst adhering to the best of traditional tailoring practices suiting cuts are softer, more relaxed in their contours and slightly shorter in the body.

The British Warm overcoat, based on civilian re appropriation of offers' greatcoats worn in WWI.is reinvented in a new lighter form using double faced cashmere woven in the UK and dyed to match the unique specification of the British Warm colour,

Trousers are cut with generous British forward facing pleats and cuffed hems. Shirt cottons are woven on 120 year old English looms in humidity controlled environments to ensure the highest quality of cloth.
Protective hand engineered pieces. Warm durable leather coats lined in rich shearling; driving blousons in British racing green; a leather topcoat in chestnut goatskin bonded with cashmere directly inspired by one from the dunhill archive. The robust pieces are teamed with polka dots accessories such as fine wool silk scarves whose finely textured surfaces contrast the buff skins of the coats.
Knitwear is in luxuriant six ends of Scottish cashmere. Aran patterned and traditionally cable stitched

The sturdy unlined sheepskin jacket once favoured by English motor racing superstars is reconfigured with the shearling seams kept on the interior, cutting a more subtle silhouette on the outside.

Neck detailing recalls the protective under snoods worn by racing car drivers in the 1950s layered in lightweight silk cashmere. Sweaters have the long tail stripe inspired by the dunhill logo as a signature feature on the neck ribbing. Jeans are cut from a specially woven hard wearing Japanese selvedge denim dyed a matt dark blue.

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