Tourne de Transmission AW18 collection at London Fashion Week Men's

Inspiration for AW18 came from photographer Leah Gordon’s book ‘Kanaval’ which  documents the carnivals of south Haiti in their various forms over a period of years.

Tourne de Transmission's creative director, Graeme Gaughan was struck by how the people of Haiti used the theatrical elements of Kanaval to offer reminders to the authorities about their failings through the abuse of power.

 The sartorial traditions of Kanaval have  been pivotal in shaping this collection. From the use of materials and fabrics, through to the shapes and silhouettes.

 Tailoring has been cut with an unorthodox fit, inspired by the Haitian boys in Gordon’s images who wear mens suiting.

They give a flat 2D shape when worn, echoing back to questions on 2D tourism.

 The juxtaposition of femininity across the men’s outfits of Kanaval are also reflected via fabrics, pleats and shapes.

 Artist Johnny Brophy has collaborated to create brooches and accessories mirroring elements of decoration & masquerade from Kanaval.

 Keen’s Uneek open air footwear is also used for their adaptation of intricate detailing, complimenting and reflecting other hand made elements seen across range.

Tourne de Transmission SS18 Collection at London Fashion Week Men

Titled The Lies That Bind, Graeme Gaughan, creative director, wanted to touch on the lack of transparency within policy, politics and media by adding layers of transparent materials to classic items such as trench coats and other outerwear.

There are additional elements of interchangeable text that can be changed as the wearer sees fit, alluding to the fact that society accepts or resists what we are media fed, generally changing our perspective based on what suits our personal circumstances at that point.

In addition, deconstructed elements of the garments exist via referencing divisions in society, bound by industry which overpowers and holds everything together.

Side panels are opened in the construction process - held together via industrial straps that can be loosened or tightened at the wearers behest - The Lies That Bind.

Video of catwalk final

TOURNE DE TRANSMISSION AW17 Menswear at London Fashion Week Men's

Usually inspired by his wanderlust, for AW17  designer Graeme Gauchan took a different direction and decided to look  inward and squarely at his home for his collection. 

It reflects his teenage years and tries to understand how his adolescent self would have reacted to recent political isolation of youth by the government,  the division of ideals and the loss of cultural icons.

His solace at that time was and still is music, he re-immersed himself in one of the bands of that period RIDE and one track in particular – NOWHERE still sums up the frustrated inability to change a bigger situation.

Titled 'Nowhere' the Tourne De Transmission AW17 collection was inspired by the Ride Lyrics of Nowhere:
I should have known better than to expect it all
You want everything and you end up grabbing at air
I had so much to give so much hope, we held each other high
But the heroes are gone and all that's left is you and me
I learned the hard way that life should be easy
But I want you to know that it was hard to show the things that I know now

All that's left is you and me and here we are nowhere
All that's left is you and me and here we are nowhere